The auto industry is currently geared towards the reduction of fuel consumption as the global community becomes increasingly aware of the threat of global warming. Aside from car makers, other consumer industries have also taken steps to develop devices which will help vehicles save on fuel.

One of the leading makers of automotive components, Bosch, has recently developed yet another innovative technology which will improve fuel economy of vehicles. The Stuttgart, a Germany based company, recently announced the development of their Climate Control Sensor. This sensor essentially checks constantly the level of carbon dioxide inside a vehicle's cabin.

By monitoring the amount of carbon dioxide inside a vehicle, the device allows the air conditioning unit to optimize its performance. When the amount of carbon dioxide inside a vehicle's cabin surpassed the preset volume, the air conditioning unit will feed fresh air in side the vehicle. Then, the unit will automatically switch to recirculation mode which means that the air conditioner will not be using up much energy.

This technology saves fuel since it decreases the load on the vehicle's engine. The air conditioner's compressor is being powered by the engine and when it is turned off by the new sensor from Bosch, the engine will not need more fuel to burn to power the compressor.

The design of the Climate Control Sensor (CCS) is compact to save space in the vehicle. The technology uses infrared-based spectroscopy to determine carbon dioxide level inside a vehicle's compartment. The company known for their excellence in developing cutting edge automotive electronics designed the device to determine even minute level of carbon dioxide.

There is also a more advanced version of the sensor which not only checks the level of carbon dioxide but also measures the humidity and temperature inside the vehicle. This more advanced sensor further optimizes the cooling unit's performance. The use of the said devices according to Bosch engineers can save consumers by as much as ten percent on fuel consumption.

With this innovation, Bosch once again proved that they are the leading producer of advanced auto components which can complement standard auto parts like Nissan ignition coil and other engine operation related components. Aside from auto electronics, the company also provides automobile components like anti-lock braking system, which the company invented, fuel injection system, starters, and alternators. These components from Bosch are known to perform well and for their durability.

Durability is also a strong selling point of Bosch's industrial machinery, and hand tools sold all over the world. The company is focused in its automotive department as shown by the fact that half of their annual sales globally comes from their automotive technology.

 

Automatic/drive-through car washes are more popular than ever because they save time -- and in winter, save you from the ordeal of trying to keep your car clean in freezing weather. They can also be safer for your car's finish than washing your car yourself. Some do-it-yourselfers don't use enough water to safely remove dirt; or they wash the car in direct sunlight -- which can burn spots in the paint. Or they use the use the wrong type of soap -- such as dishwash detergent, which removes protective wax and leaves a chalky residue. Or any one of several common mistakes than can end up doing more harm than good.

Bottom line, regular car washes can help you maintain the cosmetic appearance of your vehicle. And that is very important not just for your ego, but for the car's resale value. All else being equal, a car with faded paint and a dingy overall look will sell for 10-20 percent less than an otherwise identical vehicle that just looks nicer.

Regular washing of the vehicle's exterior will help keep your vehicle looking good by removing things like bird droppings, bug splatter and so on that can, over time, eat into the paint and leave permanent damage.

The nominal cost (on average, a full service car wash runs around $10-15 depending on where you live) is a small investment to make relative to the future resale value of your car. You might spend a couple hundred bucks over a five year period on washes -- but recoup several times that amount at trade-in time.

So how often should you have your vehicle washed? That depends on how quickly it gets dirty -- and how dirty it gets. Sometimes, once a month or so is sufficient -- especially if the car is lightly used and kept in a garage. But some cars will need a bath more often -- especially those that are parked outdoors where they're exposed to bird droppings, tree sap and so on -- or driven in areas with very long/severe winters, where corrosive road salt is in use for months on end, etc.

However, there are some important things to keep in mind when it comes to automatic car washes:

* Be sure it's "brushless" -- Some older car washes still use abrasive brushes (instead of cloth) which can leave small scratches in a car's finish. On older cars with "single stage" paint jobs, light scratches could usually be buffed out; but all modern cars use a "base/clear" system -- with a thin, transparent layer of clear coat on top of the underlying color coat to provide the shine. Once the thin clear coat is damaged, often the only way to restore the shine is to repaint the damaged area.

Even better are "touchless" car washes that use only high-pressure water jets and detergents to clean the car -- without physically touching it at all. There is virtually no chance of your vehicle suffering any cosmetic damage this way. (Some areas have "self-service" coin-operated hand washes, which are great for spraying away heavy dirt/build-up. You'll usually need to bring your own bucket, wash cloth/sponge and dry towels, though.)

* Watch out for the after-wash wipe-down -- Most drive-through washes use a strong jet of heated air to squeegee off the water after the car goes through the wash. Many full-service car washes will then have you drive the car (or drive it for you, in some cases) away from the wash area to be hand-wiped by attendants. This is ok -- provided the attendants are using fresh, clean (and soft) towels to do so. Be alert on busy days, when lots of other cars have gone ahead of you. If you see the attendants using obviously dirty old rags to wipe the car down, you should say "thanks - but no thanks" -- and drive away wet. Dirt and other abrasives in the rags can scratch the finish as effectively as sandpaper. Simply driving away from the wash and letting airflow over the car dry any remaining water is the best guarantee of a no-damage experience. Any lingering streaks can easily be cleaned up at home yourself using radily available spray cleaners designed for just this purpose. (Honda Pro Spray Cleaner & Polish is excellent for this; it also provides UV protection and easily and safely cleans off bugs, tar and road grime, etc. without water.)

* Hold off on the extras -- A "works" car wash can cost twice the cost of the basic wash; but you may not be getting twice the wash for your money. Under-carriage rust-proofing, for example, is of dubious value. Effective rust-proofing is applied to brand-new metal, in order to seal it from contact with external corrosives such as road salt. Additionally, most new cars are extensively rust-proofed at the factory, during the assembly process; further "treatment" is superfluous.

On the other hand, if the wash offers an undercarriage bath, it may be worth the additional cost. Jets of water sprayed directly underneath the car can break loose accumulated crud that would difficult (and unpleasant) to try to remove yourself, using a garden hose. It's also important that underbody drainage holes not be obstructed by mud and other build-up; accumulated moisture can accelerate rust or (in the case of the air conditioning system) lead to the formation of mold in the system.

Do, however, think twice about spray-on wax. This typically adds at least a couple bucks to the cost of the wash and is no substitute for hand-applied polish/wax. Spray-on "wax" may provide a short-term gloss enhancement, but that's about all it does. Ditto the cost of having an attendant spray Armor-All (or a similar protectant) on your tires to make them shiny; the cost for this extra can be equivalent to the cost of buying an entire bottle of the stuff on your own.

Wheel and tire cleaning is an exception; the heavy-duty cleaners used by the car wash do a great job of removing baked-on brake dust, etc., that can otherwise be a real chore to clean on your own, using over-the-counter cleaners, a hand brush and a hose. It's especially important to keep aluminum alloy wheels clean; brake dust can eventually permanently stain them -- if not regularly cleaned away.

Finally:

* Make sure your car's ok before you leave -- While many car washes will have a disclaimer posted that they are "not responsible for any damages that may occur" as a result of running your car through their wash, that doesn't mean you should automatically absolve them of any damage their equipment or personnel may have caused. If you notice something, ask to see the manager and point it out to him; whether "legally liable" or not, he may offer to fix the problem in the interest of customer relations. And even if he does not, you can still pursue the matter with a higher-up (such as the company headquarters, if the wash is a franchise, as many associated with big-name gas stations often are). If you have a cell phone with a camera, use it to take a photo of the damage in order to support your claim. And it ought to go without saying that you should never leave your purse or other valuables in the car if you use a wash where an attendant will have access to the vehicle's interior.

 

Hybrid vehicles of all types are becoming fairly commonplace sights -- but there's still a lot of mystery (and misinformation) about what hybrids can and can't -- or shouldn't -- be asked to do.

Q: If I run out gas, can't I just drive to the next gas station on the batteries?

A: Absolutely not. Doing so risks completely discharging the hybrid battery pack, which could mean you end up having to pay for a complete replacement (at a cost of potentially several thousand dollars in a worst case scenario). Never drive a hybrid with an empty gas tank.

Q: What's the "Regenerative Braking"?

A: Hybrids recharge their battery packs in two ways. Electricity is generated by the operation of the internal combustion engine -- and by recycling the kinetic energy of forward motion that would otherwise be lost as heat through braking. This is known as regenerative braking.

Q: Why would anyone buy a hybrid SUV or luxury-performance vehicle? Isn't the point of the exercise saving fuel?

A: Yes, exactly. While hybrid SUVs, pick-ups and luxury-performance cars may not be as fuel-efficient as a compact economy car, they have the potential to be far more fuel efficient than they might otherwise be. Not everyone can get by with a compact economy sedan. Some buyers need the extra room/capability of a larger vehicle -- or simply want more luxury or better performance -- just not the sky-high gas bills that often come with that. Hybrid drivetrains in SUVs, pick-ups and luxury-performance cars let these buyers have their cake and eat it, too.

Q: What is a "mild" hybrid?

A: There are two types of hybrids currently on the market. So-called "mild" hybrids are hybrids that operate primarily on their internal combustion engines. The vehicles operate in pure electric mode only when the vehicles are stopped in traffic. Sometimes, the electric motor acts as a "pusher" when vehicle is being accelerated -- but the vehicle never drives on battery/electric power alone. "Full" hybrids, on the other hand, can be driven at speeds up to about 30 mph on battery power alone -- with the gas engine coming online only when higher speeds (or loads, as when accelerating rapidly) signal the onboard electronics that additional power is required. Mild hybrids typically offer a 5-10 percent potential fuel efficiency increase over an otherwise similar non-hybrid vehicle. Full hybrids can achieve much higher fuel efficiency -- 20-40 percent better than an otherwise equivalent non-hybrid vehicle.

Q: Do hybrids have different warranties than regular cars?

A: Yes. Most new hybrids have special warranties that cover hybrid-specific components, including the battery pack and electric motor(s). This "separate" warranty is usually longer than the warranty on the non-hybrid components of the car. Typically, hybrid components are covered for at least eight years and 100,000 miles.

Q: Are hybrids cost-effective?

A: It depends. The typical hybrid costs about two to three thousand dollars more than an otherwise equivalent non-hybrid version of the same vehicle. If you drive a great deal (especially in stop-and-go city-type driving, where a hybrid is at its most efficient) or gas prices go up considerably over the time you own the vehicle, then you may quickly make up the higher up-front costs in over-the-road savings. On the other hand, if your driving is mostly at higher speeds, on highways (where a hybrid is least efficient), don't put that many miles on your vehicle -- and gas prices don't go up from where they are at the time of this writing (about $2.25 per gallon for regular unleaded) then you may never break even on your hybrid vehicle purchase. It's important to do the math for your specific situation, type of driving -- and so on -- before you come to any decision.

 

 

Hybrid pick-ups and SUVs are still pretty rare; "full" hybrids that can actually be driven on pure battery power alone -- vs. "mild" hybrids that just shut off the gas engine when the vehicle isn't moving -- rarer still.

The Ford Escape hybrid is one of them.

It's also substantially revised for the '08 model run.

The front end has been completely redone; it's now very Expedition-like (and much less Freestyle-like) with a larger (and chrome-plated) grille/bumper section replacing the body-colored (and smaller-grilled) molded plastic treatment used previously. The bumper's center section extends down and underneath the front end -- giving the appearance of an integrated skid plate -- while just above the bumper, the hood's lip rises almost vertically for an inch or so, then cuts back at an almost 90-degree angle. Larger headlamp assemblies with integrated turn and parking signals, projector-style fog lamps cut into the lower bumper -- and a black-out treatment for the B-pillar -- complete the manly makeover on the outside.

Inside, there's a new dash layout that's similarly squared-off (vs. the softer, rounded shapes used previously) with a more substantial looking center stack off to the right that houses an information center/LCD screen on top and audio/ optional GPS screen down below that.

Between the seats, there's a much more useful "deep well," multi-tiered center console with removable storage trays and combo cupholders.

All gauges and controls get "ice blue" LED-style backlighting -- a nice touch -- while the interior fabrics are made from recycled "post-industrial materials" that Ford says helps to conserve 600,000 gallons of water and seven million kilowatts of electricity that would otherwise have been used to produce seat covers from "virgin" materials.

These cosmetic changes run across the board; both standard Escapes and hybrid models get the exterior and interior facelift.

But hybrid versions of the '08 Escape get some notable functional tweaks, too -- including revised software governing the operation of the gas-electric powertrain that's designed to make the transitions between all-electric operation and tandem gas-electric operation more imperceptible and "transparent" than before. The previous Escape hybrid was not terrible in this respect by any means; but the '08 model's noticeably better -- because you hardly notice the hybrid powertrain at all.

When driving on the batteries -- which you can do up to about 25 mph or so -- your main clue about the absence of internal combustion is the tach needle, which dips into the green zone to the left of the scale until either your speed or driving conditions tell the computer to start up the 2.3 liter gas engine for additional power. The gas engine will also sometimes "cycle on" when you're not moving -- to run the AC, for example. Or to to keep the battery pack at optimal charge. But again, your main indication that any of this is happening is the tach readout. There's virtually no lag time -- even when you floor it from a standstill and the system has to quickly switch the gas engine on to meet your urgent need for speed. Similarly, the gas engine goes "dark" so discretely you'll often not even realize it's turned itself off -- and find yourself creeping along on just the batteries, marveling at the great job Ford did with the exhaust tuning.

In addition to the revised software programming for the hybrid powertrain, the '08 Escape (again, all models -- not just hybrids) gets thicker carpeting, an acoustically laminated windshield and recessed channels molded into the roof to improve airflow over the vehicle at speed and further quiet things down. Ford claims a none-too-shabby 12 percent reduction in cabin noise at 80 mph -- and a 20 percent reduction in high velocity crosswinds -- compared with the '07 Escape.

Steering is now electric-assist, too -- eliminating both the noise and the efficiency losses of an engine-driven hydraulic power steering pump.

Together, the Escape hybrid's 2.3 liter gas engine (133 horsepower) and 70 kilowatt AC electric motor and 330 volt battery pack deliver power/performance comparable to the gas-only V-6 hybrid in every area except max tow ratings (here the hybrid's only good for 1,000 lbs. vs. up to 3,500 lbs. for the V-6 gas version) while boosting city fuel economy potential by as much as 75 percent.

At the time of this writing, official EPA figures for the '08 Escape hybrid were not available -- but Ford claims mid-high 30s in city driving and high 20s-low 30s on the highway. For comparison, the V-6 Escape (2007 model) with FWD is rated by the EPA at 20 mpg city, 24 mpg on the highway. With the added weight of the optional AWD system, the figures drop to 19 mpg city, 23 mpg on the highway.

So the hybrid Escape spots the V-6 Escape about 10 mpg, both ways.

But is that gain worth the appx. $3k price difference between the least expensive version of the '08 Escape hybrid ($25,075 with FWD) and the least expensive version of the gas-burning, V-6 Escape ($21,880 for the XLT w/FWD)?

The answer depends on how much driving you do annually, how long you plan to keep the vehicle -- and ultimately, what the per-gallon cost of gas will be over that time period. Maybe you'll save some green; then again, maybe not. If gas prices float to $4 or $5 per, it could be the smartest thing you've done since ditching that iffy ARM mortgage for a sweet deal on a fixed interest rate, 30-year note. On the other hand, if gas prices stay around $2.25 or so for the next five years, you probably won't save a lot of cash -- unless you drive more than 12,000 miles annually.

You'll have to work the numbers for yourself, based on your specific situation.

But regardless, you will definitely have the satisfaction of driving a "green" vehicle that not only uses less fuel, it pollutes a lot less, too. Full hybrids like the Escape produce just fractionally more emissions overall than a "zero emissions" electric car -- and that's one aspect of performance a conventional, gas-only vehicle can't match.

As far as the rest:

The cosmetic re-do of the exterior and interior are hard to fault. While the '07 and earlier Escape was not an ugly or strange-looking vehicle -- it was a little on the vanilla side. In fact, it looked so much like its corporate cousin, the Freestyle wagon, that it was easy to mistake one for the other -- and lose them both in the shuffle. By giving the '08 version a shot of testosterone (though hopefully not so much that it will alienate female buyers) Ford has made the new Escape more distinctive, not only relative to other Fords -- but also relative to several immediate competitors.

That can't hurt.

Being one of the few "real deal" hybrid SUVs on the market that does more than shut off its gas engine at red lights isn't a handicap, either.

That the whole package is both reasonably priced and well-equipped should bode well for the '08 Escape -- and for Ford.

 

 

The electric bike is an amazing vehicle for any environmentally conscious person who feels they need a mode of transportation that is also fast and efficient. The bicycle is made not to leave the rider completely idle but to assist in the movement over hills as well as flat ground. Basically, these bikes are for people who want an alternative to a car, get exercise, go fast without increased effort, and get you where you want to be.

Amazingly, the price of a bike is the same as a standard one. So, you get the regular bike functions plus the additional power from the battery to propel you faster than you could yourself for a longer period of time. Remeber, the electricity of the bike is not to increase your speed or move without your effort, it is to assist you to ride at a regular safe speed on or off road.

You might be thinking that electric bikes require some kind of licence like motor bikes or other gas powered vehicles. Although these vehicles are similar, the law regards the electric bike the same as a traditional bicycle. As long as the bike stays at ir below 20 miles per hour, the law has no problem with allowing all willing drivers to do as they please.

There are a few different types of electric bicycles on the market including the ezeE, suadeE, and the original. The difference in the bikes are only in the way they are shaped. They allow for usability in different terrains. Certain bikes are better for rougher terrain wile others excel on flatter terrain.

In addition, there are foldable electric bikes that can be folded for easy storage and carrying. If you are a subway rider, you can appreciate the feature that can allow you to stop annoying the other passangers by taking up half the car.

Finally, the final bike type, is a smaller than average bike. The wheels on these bikes are no larger than 20′. They are easy to get off and on, they are quick and very easy to ride, and they are easy to lift and stow away. Whether your tall or short, any rider can use one of these types because it is also fully adjustable. Especially if you can't find your self pedaling all the way to your destination, the electric motor will assist you.

Those are the basics on electric bikes. You now have a choice to make: do you want a compact bike, an eZee,or a suedeE. The choice is yours. Please make sure to look at the facts about electric bikes and make sure the one you purchase or plan on purchasing is right for you, your situation, and your environment.

 

Should back-up cameras (designed to prevent kids from being run over by vehicles moving in reverse) be mandatory equipment in every new car sold? If legislation introduced by Sens. Hillary Clinton and John Sununu -- the Cameron Gulbransen Kids and Cars Safety Act -- is signed into law, they will be.

But should they?

A number of not-unreasonable objections might be raised. Just in the way of food for thought:

For one (and unlike, say, padded dashboards or even anti-lock brakes) the "safety" advantage of back-up cameras is debatable. In the first place, one could all but eliminate the chances of running over a child by making sure no babies or small kids are left sitting in the path of the vehicle before one even thinks of putting the vehicle in reverse. This does not seem an undue burden. Small children should be supervised at all times to begin with; it's arguably negligent (and not the vehicle's fault) to operate any machinery when small children are present. Lawn mowers -- or SUVs. Make sure the kids are not nearby. Turn your head; take a look back there.

It's not all that difficult.

The real problem is harried, over-extended (and thus not-paying-attention) parents aren't doing that. With one hand on the cell phone and half their attention someplace else -- and always in a big hurry -- they jump in the vehicle and throw it in Reverse with nary a thought to what might be laying in harm's way.

And since our society's first impulse is to look anywhere but in the mirror for a scapegoat, the automakers get targeted. It's their fault -- for not having closed-circuit cameras (with jarring buzzers, of course) to warn us of our own negligence before we have to deal with the consequences of that negligence.

One feels terrible for the children who have been harmed as a result of parental negligence. But it is, ultimately, an issue of parental negligence. Adding expensive idiot-proofing technology to vehicles doesn't address the underlying idiocy; it will almost certainly find expression elsewhere.

Closed circuit monitors and back-up cameras add yet another potential distraction to the vehicle -- which is itself a safety hazard. Instead of paying attention to what's going on around us, we gape at a TV screen. Brilliant. Moreover, it's probably not savvy to encourage yet more reliance on yet more technology -- rather than encouraging people to using their brains (and, hopefully common sense).

Another point: Not everyone has kids. In fact, more than half the population doesn't have kids. Forcing them to buy back-up cameras designed specifically to prevent the driver from running over a small child while backing up is not much different, when you think about it, than requiring everyone to drive a minivan with baby seats -- kids or not.

No kids, no need for a back-up camera. But Sens. Clinton and Sununu want to score political points with the "safety" lobby -- and hand the bill to you.

And the bill is considerable. Scan the options sheets of new cars that offer back-up cameras as optional equipment. The less expensive ones are several hundred dollars. Some are "bundled" with other things --like GPS navigation -- that add $1,000 or more to the bottom line. Bear in mind, the technology requires a closed circuit TV monitor built into the dashboard someplace, along with the cameras themselves and all the related gizmos and gadgetry.

And like any complex system, eventually, the thing will stop working or need expensive repairs if you own the vehicle more than couple of years. Pity the second owner -- or you, if you are the kind of person who keeps his car for eight or ten years or more.

The bill's out there, waiting for you.

For Sens. Clinton and Sununu, a couple hundred bucks more or less (or even $1,000) on the front end -- and whatever it costs to fix the thing down the road -- is just so much small change. They are both millionaires -- and can afford to indulge themselves. Most of us, of course are not -- and cannot. A couple extra hundred bucks can be a very big deal indeed -- let alone $1,000 (or more).

Especially when turning around to look before we back-up -- and making sure we know where our kids are before we do -- is so much cheaper.

 

If you're a fan of those "Transporter" movies, a sophisticated bruiser like the Audi S4 ultra-performance sedan has to be high on your lust list. Fitted leather driver's gloves. Custom-tailored Armani suit. Real-deal $500 shades -- not those cheap knock-off "Ray Bans" you pick up at 7-11.

Ok, those extras aren't included in the $47,500 base price of the '07 S4 sedan. But you do get other essential equipment for "Transporter" style adventures.

First, there's the 4.2 liter, 340 horsepower aluminum V-8 that's the centerpiece of the package -- cherry picked from the larger A6 and A8 sedans and tucked into the smaller, lighter (and therefore, faster) A4-series chassis.

To squeeze that big car engine into a small car's engine bay -- a space originally designed to house, at most, a middling-size V-6 -- some fairly serious mods were required, including a redesign of the drive mechanism for the camchains. In the S4, the 4.2 V-8's cams are not turned by a front-mounted cambelt, as per usual (and as in the A6 and A8). Instead, the cams are turned by compact chains mounted on the rear of the block. Accessories like the water pump are offset, too. These revisions cut down the overall length of the engine by about 2 inches, allowing it to fit -- though just barely. (Thank the Motor Gods for 100,000 mile spark plugs -- and for being cash-fat enough to pay someone else to deal with it when the time comes.)

The S4's prodigious 340 hp (which outguns the BMW M3's 333-hp) is routed through either a standard six-speed manual gearbox or six-speed Tiptronic automatic with full manual/Sport mode that permits driver control of up and downshifts. The stick version is wonderful -- but so is the automatic, as is often true when there's abundant torque on hand (302 lbs.-ft., in this case). It's simply not necessary to work the engine -- or run through the gears frantically -- to get that "hand of God" forward thrust.

This car can reach 60 mph in 5.2-5.3 seconds -- with Autobahn top speeds (150-plus) available whenever you need it. A BMW M3 can match those numbers, but it drives quite differently; the Beemer has a more frenetic personality, a consequence of having two less cylinders, a peakier powerband -- and mandatory manual transmission. Maybe the Beemer's more of a "purist's" machine -- but it's also more work. The S4 goes just as quickly, but does so without the dramatics (and frankly, more decorum). If you want to get noticed -- by other drivers and cops alike -- the M3's more your speed. But if you're a Transporter type and want to move fast with discretion -- the S4's where it's at.

Further evidence of the Audi's philosophy of controlled fury is the standard Quattro all-wheel-drive system (vs. the rear-drive that's common in this segment). Instead of showy but pointless tire-frying launches, the S4 simply moves out with argument-ending prowess -- letting the speedometer needle's rapid sweep to the right of the scale tell the story.

The system is, however, biased 60-40 to the rear wheels, which was done to give the car the same kind of launch feel and "throttle steer" capability you'd get in a rear-drive sport sedan -- but with the superior off-the-line traction and handling tenacity of AWD.

Dry and even wet weather lateral grip is extremely high -- and again, more linear, predictable and controllable than the typical rear-drive performance sedan when run really hard. Pass a cop on a curve in an M3 with your tail hanging out and rear tires skittering -- and he's going to notice. Hit the same curve at the same speed in an S4 and there's less obvious holliganism for him to draw a bead on. Unless you're going silly fast, that immediate red flag of recognition that leads straight to a "wig-wag light 180" (and you by the side of the road trying to explain yourself to the cop) may not trigger. Or at the least, you'll have that extra second of relative invisibility to cut your speed before it all goes sour. That can be all the difference between a minor talking-to/warning/trivial ticket -- and a possible reckless driving beef.

Given the S4's aggressive sport tires (40-series rubber on 18x8-inch rims) and hunkered low chassis, this is not, however, a car optimized for snow and winter-weather driving -- despite the built-in advantage of AWD. Still, it's probably a little bit better in that environment than a rear-drive Beemer M3 or Lexus IS350 -- though any car of this type is best left home when the snowplows are out.

What else?

Audi interiors are among the most handsomely executed in the business -- and the S4's unique touches add menace to style, creating an ambiance of tailored threat that's like a meeting with the senior partners of a Wall Street law firm. These are not men to be taken lightly.

And neither is the S4.

You'll enjoy the firm cocoon of Recaro sport buckets with suave-looking Alacantra sued inserts (unique to the S4), jet-fighter-style red/orange backlighting for the gauges and brushed metal trim. An in-dash navigation system ($1,950) is one of the few big ticket items that doesn't come with the car as it sits.

You can also order a DTM exterior enhancement kit ($1,500) that includes carbon fiber front and rear spoilers. Gray Birch or carbon fiber beltline accents are also available.

A final point worth mentioning is that Audi offers the S4 in multiple bodystyles -- sedan, sportwagon and four-seat convertible coupe. BMW's M3 currently comes only in coupe and convertible forms; ditto the Lexus IS350 (and GS), Benz C55 AMG, Caddy CTS-V and most other performance/prestige/price/size-equivalent competitors.

It's nice to have so many choices -- like opening up one of those all-metal suitcases and pondering which piece to select for the job. Will it be the full-frame .45 auto? Or perhaps the snub-nosed .38?

Audi lets you pick your weapon.

If there's a downside to this car, I didn't notice it.

So -- what's in the package? Don't ask.

 

Maximum efficiency for your Ford Tempo or whichever car or truck you are drive needs to be performing at its best capacity every time you are on the road.

To protect loved ones, run errands, save money on gas, assist in air pollution reduction, and get you where you need to be on time, every time is a duty your vehicle should uphold daily.

The most important thing you can do for auto maintenance regular check-ups, service all the liquids (checking them all once every two weeks or so), and maintain proper fuel grade levels for your engine.

Your engine will thank you with better automotive performance and quicker reaction times, which is an essential part of keeping you and your family and friends safe on the road. Car repair is easy to do if you are aware of the sounds your vehicle makes.

Make yourself very aware of this information as it may save a life one day. If not a life, then I know it will save you money on raising fuel costs and expensive auto repair labor.

Choose the right fuel. Your vehicle is designed to take regular unleaded fuel, which will have this symbol (87) on the pump at the gas station. The 87 symbol refers to the level of octane in the fuel. Using lower grade of fuel will jack up your engine and will cause heavy knocking, which could easily damage your engine.

High grade fuel will protect your fuel system from rusting and protect against fuel lock in the fuel system (causes engine to hesitate/stall and hard to restart). In addition, it will minimize fuel deposits in fuel injection system, and prevent your engine from knocking/pinging.

High grade fuel will also prevent the fuel system from "gumming up" when not run for long periods of time, not to mention help your, Ford Tempo perhaps, start more easily in winter while assisting in the prevention of freezing fuel lines.

Tips to increase gas mileage include not driving at life-threatening highway speeds which can dramatically lower your fuel economy. I know it's fun (like driving in the middle lane at 88 mph with your eyes closed and seat all the way back), but don't. Gradually increasing your speed will save you precious fuel. Extended idling of your engine will Lower your miles per gallon.

Be aware of extensive use of A/C, defroster, etc. Yes use them - when you need them. But they are all charged by the engine, increasing fuel usage. (If you live in Arizona like me then extensive A/C use is absolutely necessary!). Lack of regular maintenance will not only severely increase fuel usage, but kill your car. Always get regular check-ups to ensure maximum efficiency. No excuses!

This knowledge will save you a lot of money and expensive car maintenance costs and wear and tear on the dream car you can't get out of your head but know you will soon own.

Be kind to your car and it'll be kind to you. Car maintenance does not have to be a pain. The more you know about car repair, the more you will save on expensive mehchanic costs. Know the tricks of the trade. It is your best defense.

Use this juicy nugget of knowledge to your benefit. Oh, and email me when you get your dream car. I want a picture.

 

 

 

Speculation is rampant about the possible/pending divorce of Daimler from Chrysler.

Nothing definitive, but no outright denial from DaimlerChrysler CEO Dieter Zetsche, either. "All options are on the table," the good Herr Dr. Professor replied when a direct question was tossed his way.

That tells you all you need to know, really.

The so-called "merger of equals" (it was in fact a takeover, with Daimler simply buying a controlling stake in the formerly independent number three U.S. car brand) seems not to be working out as envisioned -- meaning there's not as much profit margin left in Chrysler's passenger car portfolio to funnel into the pockets of Daimler Ag as the Germans had hoped for. Although there was back in '98, when the "merger" took place. What happened to it all? A large chunk undoubtedly went to help the Benz side of the business expand -- which it has done copiously since then. Nine years ago, Mercedes was a luxury car line -- but not a full line. Today it sells expensive minivans and SUVs. (R-Class, GL-Class, M-Class) as well as a litter of sedans and coupes in all sizes and price points. Wonder who paid for all that R&D?

But now that the spigot's drying up, Daimler is thinking it's time to cut bait and flee -- before it ends up shelling out more than it can pick off the corpse, so to speak.

The Germans are probably worried more than anything else about Chrysler Corp's various liabilities. Everything from health and pension obligations (the same issues plaguing Ford and GM) to a surplusage of old/unused/little-used factories and other cash-sapping "assets" the Daimler muckety-mucks would rather simply give the old heave-ho to than have to deal with (and pay for) over the coming years.

That's understandable.

But this is one instance where an ugly divorce might end up being a positive thing.

Whatever problems Chrysler has, they're not due to lackluster, unappealing cars. Ok, so the 300 and Charger sedans (shared platform with the current Benz E-Class), Magnum wagon, Pacifica crossover, Crossfire coupe (Benz SLK) and so on haven't been stupendous sales successes. But there's no denying these are exciting, distinctive cars that draw attention -- a necessary first step along the road from red ink to black.

Moreover: There's a gorgeous new rear-drive Miata-fighting roadster on deck (Dodge Demon) for next year. And the recently re-tooled Jeep Wrangler has been doing gangbusters. People seem to like the little Caliber, too (and its hunky cousin, the Dodge Nitro). Sometime in mid-late 2008, Dodge will unveil an all-new/updated version of the Viper supercar that should be able to slap any Porsche (or Corvette) into next week.

So this isn't AMC in 1975 -- all Matadors and Gremlins and Pacers. Nor even Chrysler in 1981. The core product is worthy. No need for the defibrillators -- or a complete makeover. Build great cars and the rest often takes care of itself.

Enter General Motors -- and the much-talked-about possibility of a second marriage for Chrysler to America's still number one (just barely) automaker.

The logic is simple, when you think about it.

One, GM is about to be supplanted by Toyota as the world's largest automaker. Barring a catastrophic dip in Toyota's fortunes (and an equally abrupt upswing for GM) this is an inevitability. A partnership with Chrysler could stave that off for at least a couple of years -- allowing GM to retain its title (and the prestige that goes with it) for perhaps long enough to fix the underlying structural and product problems that threatened to lay it low -- while assimilating the best elements of Chrysler into itself, sort of like the Borg in TV's "Star Trek: The Next Generation." (But in a good way.)

Make no mistake, GM's slowly turning things around. Cadillac is healthy (and better yet, hip) for the first time in 10 or 20 years. Saturn -- and specifically, the new Aura sedan and Sky roadster -- has defied the mortician's premature tape measuring. The Chevy Silverado pick-up is nipping at the heels of the Ford F-truck -- and could possibly catch it as the number one selling vehicle in the American market. The new pack of rear-drive Pontiacs (G8, etc.) seem like winners.

Bu what would Chrysler bring to the table? Economies of scale, for one. The buying power of GM is already formidable; add Chrysler and the margins go down some more, making it possible for GM to squeeze a few more bucks out of each vehicle sold.

And Chrysler has some great cars, too. Don't forget that.

But the biggest argument in favor of a merge may simple be consolidation -- and the elimination of a domestic competitor for both GM and Chrysler. Such a partnership would allow the combined entity to turn its full attention on the Japanese -- and to get ready for the coming onslaught of Chinese cars, which may be unloaded en masse at vending machine prices through big box retailers like Wal-Mart and Costco.

There is strength in unity. And bigness can be a huge advantage all by itself.

Who knows? Maybe Ford will join up, too -- creating an American Automotive Entente for the 21st century that could be the only realistic hope of dealing with the homegrown problems of finding a way to pay all those promised bennies to current and long-retired employees -- and of mounting an effective resistance to the seemingly unstoppable juggernaut from Asia.

Let's face it: The auto industry is already global in all but formality. You're as likely to find German (or Japanese) warning stickers under the hood of your '07 "American" car as you are English ones.

Or maybe "Hecho en Mexico."

Maybe regional mega-blocs are the future. Maybe they are as inevitable as the free and fluid movement of money and people across international borders.

Why not make it official? Or at least, profitable.

This is just what they may be pondering right now in Auburn Hills -- and on the top floors of the Renaissance Center (GM's HQ) in downtown Detroit.

As the Borg from "Star Trek" liked to say -- "Resistance is futile"!

 

Do you have a license plate or license tag number and you need to find out the name and address of the owner of the vehicle? If so, you might have already realized that there is no free online database of license plate numbers.

Don't worry. There is still hope. If you need to conduct a reverse license plate number search online, below are several methods to accomplish your goal.

- The first method is to hire a private investigator. Find your local phone book and turn to the private investigation pages. Start calling and get prices for how much they charge to run a license plate trace. You can expect to pay $150 to $300 to get this service completed in your local area.

- The next method is to use a large online private investigation service like Abika.com or BestPeopleSearch.com. These services will charge you $79 or more to search by license plate number. You will normally get back a combination of the following information: the first and last Name, address, registration and expiration date, make and model of vehicle, VIN number, title number, lien holder name. These services can normally get information for most states in the United States as Canadian Provinces. License plate data for additional countries are also available depending on the service.

- The third option is to join a private investigation tools membership service where you have access to databases and resources used by private investigators. These memberships normally start at $29 to $59 per year and give you access to all sorts of people search databases used by private investigators. This is a good choice if you're willing to do the work yourself and you want to save a little money. The downside to this option is there is no guarantee that you will be successful in your search.

As you can see from the options above, there is no such thing as a free reverse license plate search. About the only way you can get it done for free is if you know a law enforcement officer who will conduct the search for you (they have access to all of the databases).

 

Those nagging "how come?" and "why is that" questions about cars and things related to cars abound. So how about a stab at some Q & A?

Q: Why haven't any of the automakers built a diesel hybrid? After all, diesel engines are inherently more efficient (better fuel economy) than gas engines; wouldn't it make more sense to use them in a hybrid vehicle rather than a gas engine?

A: The problem is that a diesel engine -- like an electric motor -- is optimized for low-speed torque production. That's great for a truck (or even a car) but not so good for a hybrid -- which plays on the relative strengths of the electric motor (lots of low-speed torque for getting the car moving and for stop-and-go type driving) and the gas engine (high RPM power, for extra power when passing and driving fast, etc.). Diesels also have unique emissions issues, which add to the cost and complexity of the drivetrain.

Q: How come modern economy cars don't get much better gas mileage than the economy cars of 10 or 20 years ago? Hasn't technology improved?

A: Yes, it has. But even though modern engines (especially those equipped with direct injection, cylinder deactivation, etc.) are more efficient than the engines of the past, they are also larger and more powerful. Today's buyers won't tolerate a car that requires 15 seconds (or more) to reach 60 mph. Accordingly, even "economy" car engines today are pretty strong -- with 110-140 hp being typical vs. 70-90 hp 20 years ago. Also, today's economy cars are heavier (in part because of new safety equipment like air bags, in part because things like air conditioning have become much more common, even on very inexpensive new cars. More weight and more powerful engines equals higher fuel consumption -- even for an "economy" car.

Q: Whatever happened to "real" bumpers?

A: They're still there; they're just hidden behind rubberized decorative "fascias" -- the auto industry term for the body-colored front (and rear) panels that give new cars that "bumperless" look. This change happened for two reasons: One, the "bumperless " look looks good to most people. Two, chrome plating is expensive as well as environmentally toxic -- so the automakers had two good reasons to shelve exposed chrome bumpers in favor of those body-colored fascias (and hidden bumpers that don't have to be chrome plated).

Q: Why do many front-wheel-drive cars still have driveshaft "tunnel" on the floorboard?

A: One of the design advantages of the FWD layout is the entire drivetrain -- engine, transmission and axle -- are packaged together up front, eliminating the need for the hump in the floorboard that divides the interior space of the cabin. But modern cars also sit very low to the ground -- and designers have found a new use for the "driveshaft" tunnel as a place to tuck the exhaust pipe and other components so they don't scrap the ground. The downside is the "flat floorplan" (and more usable interior space) you'd normally get as a benefit of the FWD layout is sacrificed thereby.

Q: It says "4WD" on the bumper, but there's no Low range. What gives?

A: Technically, both traditional truck-style four-wheel-drive systems with a two-speed transfer case (and Low range) and the increasingly popular all-wheel-drive systems found on many so-called "crossover" vehicles are both "4WD" -- since both systems do, in fact, drive all four wheels (at least part of the time). But the marketing of all-wheel-drive as "4WD" is a bit deceptive, since that term has traditionally been used to refer to a truck-style system with two-speed transfer case and Low-range gearing. "4WD" sounds more masculine than "AWD" -- which is why several automakers describe their lighter-duty AWD systems as "4WD." It's technically accurate -- but also a bit confusing. Before you buy, be sure you know what you're buying and that it meets your needs -- no matter what it says on the bumper.

Q: Is it just me, or have doors been getting higher (or seats getting lower?)

A: Both. If you're old enough to remember the cars of the '80s and before, you also remember that you used to be able to comfortably rest your left arm on the top of the door, with the window rolled down, on warm sunny days. That is increasingly hard to do on most new cars. Why? In order to improve occupant protection in a side-impact crash, doors have been "built up" so that more reinforced steel (and less glass) is between you and that SUV that just ran the red light. There are also design considerations having to do with the placement of side-impact air bags. You may not be able to rest your left arm on the sill as you drive -- but you'll be safer if someone T-bones you at an intersection.

 

 

Johnny Cash "walked the line" -- and that's Land Rover's delicate situation, too. People expect LR vehicles to be leaders in off-road capability -- as well as on-road civility.

The two are not easy to reconcile.

It's an especially acute challenge for Land Rover's entry-level crossover SUV -- formerly the Freelander but now called LR2 (in the U.S. market, anyhow). It is the only Land Rover model not built on a truck-style chassis -- and the only Land Rover model that doesn't offer Low range gearing and a two-speed transfer case. These are inherent limitations when it comes to serious off-roading, yet the LR2 must be able to keep up with its siblings in the lineup when the going gets sloggy. Or at least, not embarrass itself.

Given the car-type layout and what appears at first glance to be a typical car-type AWD system, you'd be right to be skeptical. And cautious about subjecting the LR2 to anything more serious than some snow on the driveway. No Low range? No way!

And yet, the LR2 will go places and tackle terrain (including sand dunes) you might be nervous about in an LR3 or Range Rover. It may not have Low range. But it does have guts.

Credit electronic intervention -- in the form of Land Rover's multi-function Terrain Response Control. This system, which is also used on the LR3 and Range Rover, has four settings -- General Driving (for normal conditions, on-road), Grass/Gravel/Snow (for slippery conditions, both on and off-road), Mud & Ruts (severe off-road driving) and Sand. The system works by automatically and continuously altering the power split, front to rear, according to conditions -- and uses the stability control, traction control and ABS systems to keep the power flowing to the ground, not just spinning the tires. Throttle "tip in" is also regulated, so that even if you give it too much pedal for conditions, the system will prevent too much power from being applied.

But the real key to the system is the Haldex center-coupling differential, which normally routes almost all the engine's output to the front-wheels -- but uses a hydraulically charged accumulator to immediately kick back as much power to the rear wheels as is necessary as driving conditions change. Hit it, and the LR2 squats as power flows to the rear -- then it lunges forward impressively. No wheelspin. No slip. No slide. You just go. Land Rover says the Haldex differential make sit possible to plant full torque to the ground upon application of full throttle in just 150 milliseconds.

The shifting characteristics of the standard six-speed automatic also vary depending on the setting you're in -- and the type of driving you're doing. This box offers both Standard and Sport settings, with manual shift control. It has a vent above the LR2's "water line" -- which is nearly 20 inches. Minimum ground clearance with the standard tires is 8.26 inches.

The LR2 also comes standard with Gradient Release and Hill Descent Control, which use the ABS and traction control systems to inch the vehicle down a steep grade without the driver having to ride the brakes -- or worry about the vehicle accelerating too rapidly and going "runaway."

The capability which results is nothing short of amazing, given the absence of a two-speed transfer case and 4WD Low range.

Land Rover took a bunch of journalists to Pismo Beach in California, where we took to the dunes in LR2s. Our experience there showed us the limiting factor was not the "light duty" AWD system -- but rather the LR2's stock tires. These are not M/S-rated and really aren't the hot ticket for off-roading of any sort. Still, the LR2 bullied its way up steep sandy inclines, getting stuck only when the driver's technique wasn't up to snuff. Even then, no winching was required -- just some words of advice on how to do it right from the off-road instructors Land Rover brought along for the ride.

A different driving style is required to get the most out of the LR2 off-road. The Terrain Response/stability control system is set up to give less yaw (side to side movement) and you have to get used to the more muted power delivery under hard charging, as when going up a slippery hill. It's more smooth and steady than Banzai! -- if that makes any sense. Initially, you might feel the thing's not gonna make it. It seems the computer is trying to slow you down by throttling back the power and pulsing the ABS to keep the wheels from spinning furiously. But then it just keeps on going and going. With some decent M/S-rated tires, the LR2 could probably go almost anywhere you'd take an LR3.

Which brings up a small complaint: Land Rover doesn't even offer M/S-rated knobbies as optional equipment for the LR2. The standard tire is an 18-inch "all terrain" tire that's basically a street tire designed for light-duty off-road work -- if that. The step-up tire is a sport tire on a 19-inch rim. The Land Rover people explained the absence of knobbies -- even optional knobbies -- as being decided upon for road noise reasons. But it seems at odds with all the commendable capability that's otherwise in this vehicle to not at least have them available on the menu for those who might actually wish to use all this wonderful built-in capability.

The other niggle's more subjective. U.S. buyers still won't see a diesel engine option -- even though European buyers will have that choice. Land Rover says ongoing concerns about U.S. diesel fuel (availability as well as quality) and pending emissions regs. (which are different than European regs.) caused them to rule it out for the North American market. That's too bad -- because a diesel SUV makes a lot more sense than a gas SUV -- both in terms of fuel efficiency as well as off-road grunt (the diesel's much-superior low-speed torque is a big help there).

Still, there's happy news underhood. The outgoing Freelander was a dog. Its puny 2.5 liter, 174-hp V-6 struggled under the yoke of nearly two tons of metal. The LR2 gets a new 3.2 liter straight six jointly developed with Volvo. This engine -- which is mounted transversely in the engine bay -- produces 230 hp (that's 76 hp more than the Freelander's 2.5 V-6) and234 lbs.-ft. of torque. Despite the curb weight increasing to well over 4,000 lbs., the LR2 reaches 60 mph in a very serviceable 8.4 seconds -- with a top speed of 124 mph. It cruises without strain at 80-plus -- which we did for hours on end during a several hundred mile drive in the rural California countryside.

With a tighter steering box (2.4 turns, lock to lock) and revised suspension (including front and rear anti-roll bars) the handling on-road is as impressive as the capability is off-road.

The max tow rating is 3,500-lbs.

You'll also note an entirely new exterior and interior -- blending LR3 (stepped roofline) and Range Rover (fender air extractors) cues together into a single handsome package. I spent nearly ten hours straight in a new LR2 without my rear end going numb or my back feeling like I'd been racked. Some new cars (let alone SUVs) will have you begging for the exits after as little as three or four hours of seat time. Back seat occupants enjoy the same level of comfort and spaciousness -- along with theater-style "command seating." With the back seats folded down, cargo capacity is almost 60 cubic feet -- among the best in class. A dealer-installed roof rack can expand the LR2's cargo-carrying capacity.

Land Rover also upped the ante in terms of amenities. All '08 LR2s come standard with a dual-section panorama sunroof, keyless ignition, bi-xenon headlights, adaptive lighting, rain-sensing wipers, park distance control and full leather trim. That's what you get for the $34,700 base MSRP. You can add GPS with a touch screen display, as well as a kicking 14-speaker Dolby Pro Logic II Surround Sound audio system with six-disc CD changer and MP3 player.

The end result is a vehicle that's substantially more capable off-road than its entry-luxury crossover competitors (Acura MDX, Lexus RX, etc.) but easily their equal when it comes to on-road manners and high-end finesse.

It walks the line... .