[edit] Steps

1. Look for the Master Lock brand. This method only works with Master Lock combination locks, and may not work with all of them. It is rumored that Master Lock changed the combination algorithm on some of the newer locks, in particular those with serial numbers starting with the number 800. Some people, however, have reportedly had success cracking these with this method, too, so it may be worth a try. Check the discussion page for this article to check which serial numbers others have had success with.
2. Turn the lock’s dial clockwise to zero. It is a good idea to turn it at least three rotations first, just to make sure it’s clear.
3. Apply steady tension to the shackle and turn the dial clockwise. The shackle is the u-shaped part of the lock that goes around whatever you’re locking. To apply tension you can either pull the shackle up while holding the lock, or you can pull the lock down if the shackle is locked onto something solid. Turn the dial slowly as you apply tension. If you can’t turn the dial at all, release the shackle and turn the dial clockwise just a number or two and then try it again.
4. Find the first sticking point.
   
   
   • As you turn the dial clockwise with tension on the shackle, you will come to a point where you can’t turn the dial anymore. Make note of where it stops. Sometimes it will stick right on the numbers, but sometimes it will be between the numbers. If so, record the number to the half (e.g. 22.5, 7.5, etc.).
   • While continuing to apply tension to the shackle, turn the dial as far left (counter-clockwise) as you can. Make note of where it stops. Now you have a sticking "range."
   • Determine the sticking point by finding the number that's in the midpoint of the sticking range. A range of 4 and 5 would have a sticking point of 4.5. A range of 22.5 and 23.5 would have a sticking point of 23.
5. Release shackle tension and turn the dial slightly past the sticking point. Turn the dial clockwise about one number from the sticking point in order to allow you to "escape" that sticking point.
6. Reapply tension to the shackle and continue turning the dial clockwise to find all the sticking points. You should find a total of twelve sticking points in one complete turn of the dial. Write them down.
7. Find the third number of the combination.
   
   
   • Look at your list of sticking points and eliminate all those which are not whole numbers (i.e. cross off any number that ends in .5). You should eliminate 7 of the 12 numbers with this step.
   • Of the remaining sticking points, choose the one with the unique digit in the "ones" position. Four of the remaining five numbers will share the same number in the "ones" place, so for example, if the numbers left on the list are 4, 14, 24, 27, and 34, the number 27 is the only one which does not have a four in the "ones" place. This is the third number of the combination.
     
     
8. Find the magic number. Divide the third number of the combination (27 in this case) by four and write down the remainder. In this case 27/4 = 6 remainder 3. Remember we are only concerned with the remainder, which will always be 0, 1, 2, or 3. Write down the magic number (3 in this example). You may want to circle it for clarity.
9. Find the possible first numbers of the combination. Add 4 to the magic number (3). Write down the result (7). Now add 4 to that and continue adding 4 to each resulting sum until you have gone completely around the dial once. Write down each of these numbers. Thus, for the example above the numbers would be 3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, and 39. One of these numbers is the first number of the combination.
10. Find the possible second numbers in the combination. If your magic number is 0 or 1 then add 2 to it, otherwise subtract 2. Since our example magic number is 3, we subtract 2 and get 1. Write down the answer and add 4 to it. Now add 4 to each resulting sum until you have gone completely around the dial once. Thus, in the example, the numbers would be 1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33, and 37. One of these numbers is the second number in the combination.
11. Figure out the correct combination by trial and error. You now know all the possible first numbers [3, 7, 11, 15, 19, 23, 27, 31, 35, 39], all the possible second numbers [1, 5, 9, 13, 17, 21, 25, 29, 33, 37], and the third number [27]. You’ve just narrowed down 64,000 combinations to only 100. Now try each combination until you find the correct one. If you’re lucky, you may need to try only a few but then again, you may need to try all 100.

[edit] Tips

• After cracking just one lock, the system becomes much easier to understand, so hang in there.
• If you’re in a hurry, you don’t need to calculate the possible first and second numbers yourself. Once you’ve figured out the third number, you can save time by using a special computer application to determine all the possible combinations. See the External Links section below.
• Though not necessary, you may find it helpful to write out the combinations methodically so you don’t forget which ones you’ve already tried in the middle of the next step. Thus, you could make a chart with all the combinations (3-1-27, 3-5-27, 7-3-27, etc.)
• This will work only if you get the 12 numbers: 7 decimals, 4 integers with mutual "ones places" and one integer with a unique digit in the ones place.
• Only consider proceeding with this method if you enjoy a challenge. Otherwise, cutting off the lock and buying a new one makes more sense.
• You can also drill a small hole in the back of the lock (next to the master key) so that you can view the tumblers. After you align the tumblers, and determine the unlock code, you can seal the hole with a two-part epoxy.

[edit] Warnings

• Do not use this technique to crack someone else's lock without permission of the owner. If you do that, you are breaking the law and could be prosecuted accordingly.

[edit] Steps

1. Obtain some sturdy Giraffe patterned material. Brown leopard print material works well, but you could use fabric paints to make your own pattern if you wish.
   

   Leopard Print Corduroy.
2. Copy this pattern to scale:
   

   Click to expand, print, and copy
3. Cut out the pattern and pin to two layers of cloth. Remember to have the cloth "back to back" so that you have both sides of a Giraffe, rather than two right sides or two left sides of a Giraffe. In other words, the two sides will be "mirror images" of each other.
   

   Cutting the main body pieces.
4. Cut two of the belly pieces by cutting the pattern along the "belly line" and then using it to cut the fabric as in the previous step.
   

   Cutting the Belly pieces
5. With right sides together, sew the belly pieces together along the straight edge, leaving two inches in the middle for turning, stuffing and closing later.
   

   Sewing the belly. Remember to leave a 2 inch opening for stuffing later.
6. Pin a four inch strip of brown felt along the top edge of the giraffe's neck (see photo)
   

   The felt mane...
   

   Pin the mane in position.
7. With right sides together, pin the giraffe together and sew the top half of his body from chest to tail.
   

   Pinned together
   

   Sew from the chest to the tail.
8. Fold the belly pieces so that right sides face outward and insert them in between the body pieces, taking care to line up and either baste or pin the feet.
   

   Belly pieces on right, folded with leopard print facing out, being inserted between body pieces on the left.
   Note: You may need to use a seam ripper to adjust the length of the top seams if the belly pieces are not lining up well at this point.
9. Sew the belly to the body.
   

   Sew top and belly together, taking care to flip the "top" section out of the way as you sew around the "legs".
10. Clip all seam allowances.
    

    Clip the seam allowances.
11. Turn the giraffe right side out and stuff firmly through the two-inch hole that remains in the belly. Too little stuffing will prevent the giraffe from standing up.
    

    Turned "right" side out.
    

    Stuff VERY firmly
12. Hand sew the Giraffe's belly closed.
13. Stitch the legs together as shown if you wish for your giraffe to stand up as opposed to sitting/laying down with legs splayed
    

    Tack the legs together.
14. Cut and sew on the ears.
    

    Ear "pattern"
    

    Sewing on the ears.
15. Use embroidery floss or yarn to make the giraffe's horns and tail. This particular project utilizes four thicknesses of floss (6 strands each).
    
    
    • 

      Pull floss through.
      Pull floss through.
    • 

      Tie floss in a knot.
      Tie floss in a knot.
    • 

      Tie ends of floss for "horn knobs"
      Tie ends of floss for "horn knobs"
    • 

      Completed "horns"
      Completed "horns" are shown.
    • 

      Knot the tail twice, once near the body and once at it's end.
      Knot the tail twice, once near the body and once at its end. Alternatively, you could knot the tail on the rump and braid it for an inch or so before knotting at the end and clipping the excess length off.
16. Sew the giraffe's eyes on and display proudly or give to a friend to double your enjoyment of the giraffe.
    

    Gerard the Giraffe

[edit] Tips

• Setting your sewing machine to a shorter stitch is helpful in preventing seams from bursting when you are firmly stuffing the giraffe.
• Small black buttons would work for eyes if you do not have the wiggly eyes available.
• Sew-on eyes do not detach from the head as easily as glue-on eyes. If you are giving this to a toddler, this must be a consideration.
• Once you've mastered this, you can start to make any animal - dogs, cats, bears, elephants, horses, etc etc. Just change the fabric, the length of neck and the tail type and you're done!
• Modification for a horse: Shorten the neck, eliminate the "horns", sew the ears upright, and make a thicker tail.

[edit] Warnings

• Scissors and needles are sharp. Handle with care.

• A quarter yard of sturdy leopard print material such as corduroy, heavy cotton, etc.
• A small scrap of brown felt (2 inches by 4 inches is plenty)
• Sewing Machine (although you "could" do this by hand)
• Stuffing material
• Hand sewing needle
• Thread in the same color as your cloth.
• Embroidery Needle
• Brown Embroidery Floss
• Eyes - either buttons or the movable type, preferably the "sew on" type rather than "glue on".

[edit] Steps

1. 

   Emulate
   Start playing now. The greatest of the great started becoming acquainted with their guitars as soon as they could get their hands on one, although there are many great guitarists who didn't even touch a guitar till their teens (Clapton for example) or even older. The point is to start playing as early as you can. Stop making excuses, stop saying you need the perfect guitar, stop waiting to be "inspired," and stop wasting another minute to learn how to develop your inner guitar god. There's no reason to wait.
   
   
   • There's a very good chance that you will not be good at first. Everyone has to start out being bad, so they can improve from there. Think of it this way - babies are terrible at walking, little children struggle with talking. But they keep doing it, without feeling bad about themselves. Eventually those babies grow up to kick you in the face and insult your mother.
   • Can't afford a nice guitar? For now, buy an inexpensive guitar when you first start. You only need to get comfortable with the new movements with your fingers. It's only a temporary measure (see Warnings) but it's better than nothing!
2. 

   Multitask
   Practice till your fingers bleed. -- Okay, maybe bleeding fingers aren't the smartest way to go (see Tips), but you get the idea. Eddie Van Halen used to walk around his house with the guitar strapped on and unplugged, practicing incessantly; he'd sit on his bed for hours on end with a guitar while other people went to parties. Are you ready and willing to do the same? Get your priorities straight and learn to multitask. It's all about dedication and discipline.
3. 

   Concentrate
   Be precise. Just because you're starting doesn't give you an excuse to be sloppy. Like in Tai Chi, if you practice very slowly with 100 percent concentration, you'll become five times faster and better; so when you practice, do it slowly and concentrate. You'll be amazed at the results.
   
   
   • If you don't have an experienced instructor or high quality equipment, this may be difficult, but you have to be a stickler for technique. Do your homework and ask questions. Be persistent. If you know someone who's an excellent guitar player, don't be shy. Walk up to them with the guitar strapped on, politely request a moment of their time, and ask them if your finger placement for a particular chord or technique is correct. Most experts, when they see an error, are compelled to correct it out of their love of the art.
   • Studying your idols. Listen to other guitarists' riffs and solos and learn them.
   • Some techniques that are worth learning:
     
     
     • Harmonics and pinch harmonics
     • Palm muting
     • Right hand tapping
     • Hammer ons/pull offs.
   • Scales you should be familiar with:
     
     
     • Major and minor
     • Be able to play scales forwards as well as backwards, moving from scale to scale in a given key
     • Pentatonic major and minor.
4. Study classical music. It may seem worlds apart from the music you envision yourself playing, but practically all of the guitar geniuses that you look up to have studied classical technique at one point or another. Malmsteen, for example, was heavily influenced by 19th century violin virtuoso Niccolò Paganini. In the process of adapting Paganini concerto pieces on guitar, he fostered a prodigious technical fluency that would later make jaws drop. Additionally, Eddie Van Halen began his musical aspirations with classical piano before he discovered the freedom of guitar. Randy Rhoads was an avid player and listener of classical music.
5. 

   Read
   Learn the ins and outs of reading music. Sure, Stevie Ray Vaughn was amazing and he didn't know how to read music, but if you just sit down and learn to read and transpose music, you will be much better off. Not only will you know what sounds good, you will know how to put it into writing and you will learn deeper elements of music. Music is not just the notes you are playing, but the pause between notes and the composition of good music.
6. Understand chord theory. Learn as many chords and inversions as you can. Become familiar with how they sound and why you use them. Even if you aren't playing jazz, (where you would typically hear many of these chords), knowing the notes and sounds of these chords can make your soloing more interesting. Some of the greatest rock guitar solos are actually very jazz-influenced.
7. 

   Feel
   Play with emotion. Once you've developed proficiency, you can use the guitar for freedom of expression. You can feel the music in your blood, and make other people feel it, too. Remember, the greatest musicians of all time, the ones who are most deeply respected, are the ones who could move others, physically or emotionally, with their music. Believe you can become a breath-taking guitarist -- it makes such a difference if you know you will be brilliant.

[edit] Tips

• Take care of your hands. Before and after you play do warm-up and cool-down sessions with your fingers. Do regular hand exercises with both hands as this helps with all situations with the guitar. Keep your fingernails as short as possible as this helps grip the strings more easily.
• Take care of your guitar. Check it regularly and clean it. Get any parts fixed if broken or not working properly.
• Play with a metronome - it's much easier to play with other people if you are used to playing in time. Learn something at a slow tempo and then slowly increase the tempo setting.
• One big problem with many cheap guitars is that the action, or how far the strings are from the fingerboard, is too high. This makes it tough to fret notes and you may end up pressing too hard. However, this problem is easy to solve. Just take your guitar to a guitar shop and they will lower the action, often for free.
• Obtain some inexpensive software to slow down MP3 files without changing the pitch. You can then slow down songs (or portions of songs) on your computer as slow as you need to. This is critical in order to understand more complex ideas, and is great for ear training.

[edit] Warnings

• Playing on a cheap guitar won't help. It may not hurt, and you don't need to drop more than $200 on your first one, but a bad enough guitar can create bad habits, like pressing so hard you make all the notes sharp; like avoiding the use of correct fingering (to favor "stronger" fingers); like avoiding some chords and notes because they sound bad on poorly dressed frets; like ruining your pitch perception with a poorly cut nut or warped neck that will never play in tune. Also, low-quality guitars make lots of people quit because what they are playing sounds bad and they assume it's their fault when it isn't. A dead fret is a dead fret. You can put a vise on it and it won't matter.
• If you're a beginner, don't play with flash gear straight away; this will make you think you're better than you really are, when really you're just cheating.
• If you have a demanding practice regimen and have a break, work yourself back into it gradually or you may injure yourself.

• A guitar - Start with an acoustic guitar, there's a chance it might not be your thing and there's no point in wasting money on electric equipment you'll never use.
• A tuner (get one with electric guitar inputs, so if you end up loving it you won't have to make another purchase)
• A variety of picks
• A Metronome
• Guitar case (many guitars will come with one)
• Strap (optional-it's easier to sit when you're beginning)
• Stereo
• CDs (or LPs) of your favourite bands and/or iPod or MP3 player containing as many songs by your favourite bands as you can get hold of
• When you purchase an electric guitar you'll need:
  • An amplifier
  • Instrument cable
• Optional Items:
  • A multiple effects rack OR as many of the following as you wish to get...
  • Wah wah pedal
  • Distortion box (depending on your style and your amp)
  • Chorus box
  • Flanger box
  • Digital Delay and/or Echo box
  • Talkbox

Take a look at Brix, a modular concept for a cell phone that lets you use one of the screens as a phone and video display, or piece together multiple units for a screen that gets larger and larger. It's a lot like the Nokia Prism but takes the shiny and mysterious design concept a step further.

If you have enough of these bezel-less Brix modules, you can piece them together to make a big-screen TV. Want to take a cell phone with you? Snap off a module, slip it in your pocket and you're off and running.

It's hard to tell how feasible Seokwon Hong's design concept is, because the individual modules would probably be too expensive to own a lot of them. However, if economies of scale brought the price down, an idea like this might work, especially if one "master" module contained most of the electronic trickery. However, we're wondering whether a big display pieced together from a bunch of Brix would show its seams too much to be useful.

Follow the link below to see the variety of configurations that could be possible with such an ambitious design. — Charlie White

How to Fold a Napkin Into a Pyramid

A nice way to add an elegant touch to any dinner party is to fold the napkins into a three-dimensional design. The napkin pyramid is a basic design that you've probably seen many times and is easy to learn. Impress your guests with a touch of napkin origami by following these steps!

[edit] Steps

1. 

   Note labeled corners A, B and C
   Fold the napkin in half along the diagonal.
2. 

   
   

   
   Fold corners A and B to corner C to form a napkin diamond.
3. 

   
   Turn the napkin over so it looks like a square standing on one of its corners (left to right).
4. 

   
   Fold the napkin in half again by folding the top corner down to the bottom corner.
5. 

   
   Place the fingers of one hand underneath the napkin as shown and raise it upwards, creating a pyramid.

[edit] Tips

• Make sure that the napkin is tightly pressed and smoothed at every step of the way. If your napkin is loose the final result will not look as good and will fall apart quickly.
• If you have your napkins laundered, make sure they add starch. If you are ironing yourself, a good dose of spray starch will help the napkins keep their shape.

You can be pretty easygoing, but today sees you nearing your limits. Don't be too surprised if you snap at someone who's telling you some bad news. Things should pick up for you in the very near future.

How to Sew a Cloth Baseball

Whether you're making a toy, a decoration, or even a pincushion, these instructions will show you how to create a basic "baseball" template for making a cloth ball . No matter what it's ultimately going to be used for, it makes for a fun craft project and a great little gift.

[edit] Things You'll Need

• Heavy cloth scraps (an old pair of jeans or a scrap of heavy twill will do excellently)
• Sewing machine and/or needle and thread
• Heavy thread such as embroidery floss
• Marker
• Scissors
• Round object: a glass, a jar lid, or a can of soup
• 

  
  Stuffing material such as pillow batting or similar.

[edit] Steps

1. Draw your pattern. A baseball is sewn from two pieces of material. The pieces are shaped roughly like a figure eight or dumbbell.
   
   
   • 

     
     Take the round object, such as a glass, a jar lid or a can of soup, to use as your base template. Bear in mind that the finished ball will be approximately the same diameter as the round object you use to trace the pattern with.
   • 

     
     Trace the round object once and then move it 2/3rds of its width away from the original tracing and trace it again.
   • 

     
     Join the two circles from edge to edge.
   • 

     
     Narrow the "neck" part of the diagram by approximately a quarter of the total width of the circles on both top and bottom. From here on forth, ignore the "outer" lines, as they were for reference only.
   • 

     
     Using the inner lines as your guide to make the final template, round the inner corners.
   • 

     
     Add a quarter inch seam allowance.
2. 

   
   

   
   Pin two layers of cloth together and cut two of these pieces from your heavy cloth.
3. 

   
   

   
   Sew the two pieces together along their seam line, starting the rounded end of one piece in the middle of the "waist" of the other piece and with right sides facing together as shown.
4. 

   
   Leave an inch or so of opening for turning right side out and stuffing. Back stitch the ends of the seams to prevent unraveling at inopportune moments during stuffing.
5. 

   
   Clip the seam allowances every quarter inch or so up to the stitch line to allow the seam to lay smooth when turned, being careful to clip up to the line without actually cutting the seam.
6. 

   
   Turn the ball “right side” out and stuff it to the level of firmness you like.
7. Blind stitch the opening closed. Voila! You’ve got a cloth ball!

[edit] Tips

• This can be sewn either by hand or by machine.
• A heavy cloth works best.
• If you like, you can use embroidery floss to stitch decorative stitching along the seam line to make your cloth ball look more "baseball like." Be careful to hide any knots inside the ball and clip the floss short when you’re done.
• 

  
  If your ball looks rather "squarish" (see photo) you drew your two original circles too close together. Move the circles further apart (around 2/3rds of the total diameter of one circle distant from each other) and try again.

[edit] Warnings

• Needles and scissors are sharp. Be careful how you handle them!

How to Make Chiles Rellenos

Chiles rellenos is a Mexican dish made from chile peppers (usually poblano or Anaheim) that are stuffed, dipped in batter and fried. The name of the dish literally means "stuffed chiles" in Spanish. The preferred stuffing varies from region to region, and families sometimes put their own twist on this classic Mexican recipe. If you're interested in trying this ethnic dish, and your tongue can take a little heat, here is a delicious way to prepare and enjoy chiles rellenos.

Serves 10

[edit] Ingredients

• 20 large chiles, firm with stems attached
• 1 1/2 pound of ground beef
• 1 pound of cheddar cheese (or try Cotija cheese)
• 1 tomato
• 2 onions
• 12 eggs, whites and yolks separated
• Bowl of flour, for coating the chiles

[edit] Steps

1. Make the filling. Here, we will make two fillings: one comprised of meat, and the other of cheese.
   
   
   • 
     Meat filling - Fry the ground beef in a standard non-stick pan. Chop up the tomato and one of the onions. Add them to the pan when the meat is fully brown. Remove the pan from the heat and give the ingredients a stir.
   • Cheese filling - Grate the cheddar cheese into a bowl with a cheese grater. When the whole pound is grated, chop up and add the remaining onion.
2. 
   Roast the chile peppers. Sometimes, you can buy them already roasted, especially in areas where chiles are a popular part of local cuisine. You can also buy them on the Internet, roasted and frozen. To roast them yourself, put them on the grill or on a gas stove and leave them over the open flame, rotating until they are completely charred. Then rinse them off in cold water, rubbing off the burnt skin. You should now have 20 tender chiles that are waiting to be stuffed.
3. 
   Prepare the batter. This can be done while the chiles are roasting. Place a dozen egg whites in a bowl. Using an egg beater, beat the whites until they firm up. When they are firm and white, almost like whipped cream, stir in the egg yolks.
4. 
   Cut an opening in the side of the chile. Make it large enough that stuffing can be put in, but not so large that the chile will fall apart. At this point, you can carefully scrape out the seeds with a butter knife to reduce the heat of the pepper, but this is optional.
5. 
   Stuff the chiles. Be careful because the soft, roasted chiles are easily torn. Begin with the meat stuffing. Portion out some of the stuffing and fill the chile. When ten of the chiles are filled, do the same to the remaining chiles with the cheese stuffing. Don't stuff them so much that the slit can't be closed.
6. 
   Pin the chiles with the toothpicks. It doesn't need to be perfect; it's just to keep any stuffing from falling out while you fry them.
7. Prepare a pan with vegetable oil. Allow the oil to get hot but keep setting on low.
8. 
   Coat the chiles with the flour. You put the flour on the chile to reduce the water content and to create a dry surface for the egg white batter to adhere to.
9. 
   Dip the stuffed chiles in the egg batter.
10. 
    Place them into the pan and allow them to fry, turning them as the sides obtain a light brown color.
11. 
    Serve hot with rice and tortillas.

[edit] Tips

• Try making different kinds of stuffings, such as a whole piece of cheese, bean or tomato stuffing.
• This can be a meal on its own or a hearty side-dish. It's your choice!
• If you damage a chile, and it isn't "right" for stuffing, you can still use it and make an interesting meal. Just slice the chili in half so it lays flat and place it in an oven-proof shallow dish. Put the "stuffing" on top followed by cheese and finally the batter, garnish if desired. Then bake on medium heat until the batter is a golden brown.
• Be sure to allow some of the batter to drain from the freshly dipped chile so that you don't have a puddle of batter in the oil. Less really is more in this case and will result in an evenly cooked chile.

[edit] Warnings

• Be careful when using stoves, especially when cooking with hot oil. Always supervise children while they cook.
• Turn the heat to low when adding the chiles to fry so that the oil does not splatter.
• Wash your hands well after handling the chiles. Be sure to not to touch your eyes or any soft tissue such as inside your nose or personal areas after handling the chiles.

[edit] Things You'll Need

• 12-inch non-stick pan
• Wooden spoon
• Rubber gloves
• Bowls
• Cheese grater
• Toothpicks
• Serving dishes
• Egg beater

Even if your life feels just about right to you, there are parts of your subconscious that want improvement. Expect a dream message or something similar bearing an odd request for a lifestyle change.

How to Drive a Golf Ball

For those who are looking to put their tee-shot in play, what follows are methods to improve the distance of your drive, learned through many rounds of golf and many hours on the range.

[edit] Steps

1. Have proper equipment. Today's equipment and balls are not necessarily tailored for 7 - 8 degree drivers. That is a thing of the past. Getting the ball up in the air on a good trajectory is the first step to driving the ball longer. Many touring pros regularly use 9 and 10 degree drivers and drive the ball 300 plus yards. Plus, you will get much more consistency with a more lofted driver.
2. Start with your front foot in line with the ball to give it more loft during the set up. When you go for your backswing, you should shift your weight backward. This will give your swing more power.
3. 

   Review your grip
   Use the proper grip pressure. Even though you may think that gripping harder and swinging harder produces results, that is absolutely incorrect and is probably why you don't get consistent distance. Cal Ripken, a hall of fame baseball player for the Baltimore Orioles, recently indicated to the Golf Channel that his grip pressure on the bat (on a scale from 1 being easiest to 10 being hardest) ranged from 2-4 for perfect release. Going all the way back to the great Harry Varden, you will find that the great players indicated that the grip pressure should resemble one holding a bird without crushing it but also not letting it go. The tighter you hold the club, the less it will release throughout the ball. Hands must be tension free. Try it at the range and watch for the results.
4. Keep the start of your downswing calm and unhurried. This enables you to build up speed, so that the golf club is still accelerating when it reaches the ball.
5. Stay flat. Your driving wood should stay along the ground for at least the first 20 to 25 percent of your swing. If your club is lifting up, you will pop the ball up and not get that long, boring drive that you see the pros hit regularly (when the ball takes off like a missile and slowly climbs to a beautiful height and tracks down the fairway).
6. 

   Leading hand angled towards the ball, not forward
   Keep the angle on your leading hand. Many amateurs tend to flip the hands forward in an effort to get the ball in the air, but this only retards the effort of having good equipment (as noted earlier). The leading hand (left hand for most players, right hand for southpaws) should be angled down towards the ball on the downswing. It's like you are hitting the ball with the back of left hand. If your left hand is flipping up on the downswing, your contact will not be solid and you will get consistent misses with your wood. Keeping the angle starts the ball low and lets it climb on its own through your generated power.
7. Pick a spot on the ground that lines up with your target and, from your address, stretch your wood towards it. If done correctly, your arms should form a "V" shape with both arms fully extended. If you have a tendency to bend your left arm early, that will retard distance; keep your "V" as long as possible before it bends at the finish of your swing and you will find yourself getting much more distance.
8. 

   Over the shoulder
   Finish the swing over your left shoulder (for right-handed golfers) or right shoulder (for left-handed golfers). Don't be in a rush to look up and see where the ball went.

[edit] Tips

• If you are still a beginner in the game, then only work on one step at a time at the range. All of these steps are vital but if you try to learn them all at once, it could cause frustration.
• Speed can be increased by setting the wrists into a cocked position early, and on the downswing keeping the wrists cocked for as late as possible, and then swishing through the ball. This is similar to flicking your wrists when using a badminton, squash, or tennis racquet.
• Make the swing smooth like a windmill rather than choppy, and beginners should resist the urge to break their wrists just before the club impacts the ball no matter how great that worked in baseball. It gives another opportunity for your timing to break down.
• Have a swing thought when you address the ball, such as "Free and easy, free and easy." This might help remind you to relax and not swing hard or grip the club hard.

[edit] Warnings

• Golfers who are inclined to hit at the ball with their hands rather than swinging through the ball find that they lose a lot of power, and hence distance.
• Don't swing at the ball. Your objective should be to swing the club head along a line toward your target, with the ball being positioned on that line.

How to Advertise to Be a Tutor

So you'd like to be a tutor. First, though, you'll have to find somebody to tutor. How do you find some customers and get your foot in the door?

[edit] Steps

1. Be ready to take customers and tutor them before you post your first ad. Your advertising will be most effective if you can create a good first impression with those who call. Good preparation should also show through in your ads.
   
   
   • Choose the subject(s) you will tutor. If possible, select subjects relating to your own expertise, subject of study, or professional experience.
   • Consider the age range with which you'd like to work. Second graders and high school juniors will have widely varying levels and needs.
   • Get some experience tutoring, formally if possible. See if your local library has an adult literacy program. Look for volunteer tutoring opportunities in your area and find out whether any offer tutor training. Or, tutor somebody you know, such as a neighbor or family member.
   • Write a resumé of your tutoring experience and related education. Don't forget volunteer experience, such as helping a classmate, sibling, or child. You can show this list of qualifications to prospective customers or their parents. Even if you don't show it to them, it will help to prepare you to promote your services and answer calls.
   • Consider taking classes or training in how to teach. There is more to it than knowing the subject you'll teach. You also have to know about how to motivate students and explain things.
   • Decide how much you will charge. Evaluate your credentials and experience, and find out what others in your area charge.
     
     
2. Decide where you will tutor. If you will go to the students, don't forget to factor in travel time. If the students will come to you, make sure you are comfortable having them at your home.
3. Make business cards that state that you offer tutoring services and hand them out to people you know. Besides being a simple and inexpensive way to spread the word, personal contacts and word of mouth are very powerful and persuasive advertising tools. People tend to trust people they know.
4. Sign up with a local tutoring agency and let them do the advertising for you. Depending on the agency, be aware that you may have to demonstrate at least basic academic credentials, such as having a college degree. Also be aware that these agencies take a cut, so you will make less per session than you might freelancing. Also find out what they have in their contracts for non-competition clauses. That said, they can be a good way to build your tutoring experience.
5. Sign up with an on-line tutoring agency. This and various other on-line services match up tutors and students. If you go with such a service, read the fine print and find out what the fees and restrictions may be. Keep in mind that you may not meet your students personally this way, nor necessarily have long-term contact with them.
6. 

   Notice how this flyer grabs attention with bright colors and uses the entire area to convey its message.
   Look for tutors and their advertising in your area. Notice what gets your attention and what doesn't. Notice what's persuasive and what's just ho-hum. Also, if you can, try to get an idea of what other tutors with similar credentials are charging for their time.
7. Compose your advertisement. Aim to catch attention, then demonstrate value. Mention your credentials and focus on results. Don't forget to include some information about what subjects and ages you can teach. One approach might begin: "'Jessica' raised her math grade from C to A; you(r child) can, too. Ask me how!"
8. Create different versions of your ad with varying lengths and headlines. A classified ad will read differently than a flyer, for instance. Have somebody proofread your ads. Even if English is your strong point, you can still miss things in your own writing, and you want to come across as professionally as possible.
9. Advertise locally. Try these options:
   
   
   • The local classified ad pamphlet that comes around in the mail once a week
   • The classified section in the newspaper
   • Flyers at local supermarkets, libraries, campuses, etc.

[edit] Tips

• Be prepared to give references. This is where volunteer experience can come in handy, if you don't yet have some established, satisfied customers.
• Encourage your customers to tell others. Moms of students, especially, talk to other moms.
• Ask your customers how they heard of you so that you know which advertising approaches work.
• When advertising, put yourself in the shoes of your customers. If you were a student or a parent, where would you go? What would you read? What would concern you? What would attract you?
• Be honest, but don't be overly modest. Present your work in a good light. Don't put your prices in your ads unless you intend to use them as a selling point. Otherwise, discuss that after your first impressions are made. Keep in mind, though, that some people believe that lower prices indicate lower quality.
• Consider offering a first session for free or a reduced rate. It's a good incentive for people to try you, and it's a good opportunity for you and your customers to get to know each other under a little less pressure.
• Call your local schools and ask if they have a tutor list, have them put your name on it. If they don't have one, ask if they would consider starting one. They may require you to come in or to send a resume.

[edit] Warnings

• There are restrictions on certain kinds of advertising. Make sure that you follow guidelines of campuses, libraries, cities, and other establishments where you post flyers or spread handbills, and otherwise obey laws.
• Find out whether you need a business license or other credential to work as a tutor.
• Be the best tutor you can be. The best advertising is word of mouth from satisfied customers.
• Remember, tutoring is considered self-employment, so you will have to pay the appropriate taxes on your income.

 

Ingredients   [edit]

• Kasseri Cheese (for 2 people, we usually make 2 or 3 wedges of “Stella Kasseri Cheese”)
• Baguette bread - sliced (you can use both French baguette and sun dried tomato baguette, a good substitute is sun dried tomato flat out bread)
• 3 Eggs – beaten
• Italian style breadcrumbs
• Vegetable oil

Cucumber Sauce

• 3 – 4 teaspoons lemon juice (more or less to taste)
• 3 teaspoons garlic powder (more or less to taste)
• 3 – 4 good-sized cucumbers
• 16 ounces sour cream or plain yogurt

Steps   [edit]

Sauce Preparation

1. 

   Sauce Preparation - Ingredients
   Gather your ingredients for the sauce.
2. 

   Sauce Preparation - Cut up Cucumbers
   Peel the cucumbers, cut them lengthwise into quarters, and then cut into small pieces.
3. 

   Sauce Preparation - Cucumbers blended in blender
   Put the cucumber pieces into a blender and liquefy.
4. 

   Sauce Preparation - Straining blended cucumbers
   Strain the cucumber juice through a small-screened sieve. You will be using the pulp.
5. 

   Sauce Preparation - Drink or discard Cucumber juice
   Drink, save, or discard the leftover cucumber liquid.
6. 

   Sauce Preparation - Finished Sauce
   Mix the sour cream, cucumber pulp, garlic powder, and lemon juice together, using more or less garlic powder and/or lemon juice to taste.
7. 

   Cucumber Sauce In Dessert Dishes
   Serve the sauce in individual dessert dishes.
   

Cheese Preparation

1. 

   Cheese Preparation - Stella brand Kasseri Cheese
   Take cheese out of packages and let sit until it reaches room temperature. (If the cheese is too cold, then during the time it takes to cook, the outer part of the cheese will melt but the inner part will still be too solid and not melty. And if kept in the oil longer to get the inside melty, then the breading will burn).
2. 

   Cheese Preparation - Beaten Eggs and Bread Crumbs on plates
   Beat the eggs and pour onto a plate. Pour Italian breadcrumbs onto another plate.
3. Dip all sides of the cheese into the egg mixture, then into breadcrumbs to bread the cheese.
4. Set cheese on another plate and let the breading on the cheese dry.
5. 

   Cheese Preparation - Double breaded Kasseri Cheese Wedges
   Repeat the breading process. They must be double breaded so the cheese won’t melt through the breading during cooking.
6. 

   Frying pan with vegetable oil and skillet on stove
   Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan on slightly less than medium setting. (Use enough vegetable oil to come half way up the sides of the cheese during cooking). Also heat up a skillet (such as one used for making tortillas, with shallow side walls).
7. 

   Frying the cheese
   Put cheese into the oil until golden brown.
8. 

   Fried Kasseri Cheese
   Turn the cheese over and cook until that side is also golden brown.
9. 

   Dinner is served
   Put cheese in the skillet and serve as is, along with the cucumber sauce and baguette bread.
10. 

    Cheese and Sauce on Baguette bread
    Use a fork to cut a piece of the cheese (while cheese is still in the skillet), put the cheese from the fork onto a slice of bread, and put sauce on the bread also. Enjoy!

Tips   [edit]

• Serving the cheese in a hot skillet helps keep the cheese hot. You’ll need something on the table to set the skillet on so that it doesn’t burn or scorch the table.
• The cheese should be between 3/4" and 1" thick.
• Don't be afraid to try this with other cheeses as well. Cheddar cheese and pepper jack cheese are also good when prepared in this manner.
• In the absence of a small-screened sieve, 2 or 3 paper towels folded can be used to separate the cucumber juice from the pulp.
• Substitute the sour cream with yogurt for a more authentic tsatsiki sauce.
• For an extra touch, pour a small amount of brandy (1/4 cup will do) over the fried cheese. Light it on fire and then squeeze a lemon over it. Don't forget to yell "OPA!"
• You can also use flatbread for a more authentic dish.

• Blender
• Medium to large frying pan
• Skillet with shallow sides
• Dessert dishes
• Small-screened sieve
• Something to set on the table top to set the hot skillet on to prevent burning or scorching the table, such as an upside down pizza pan.

Steps   [edit]

1. 

   Head of Western Diamondback Rattlesnake
   Know your snake. Is it a rattlesnake or a different kind of snake? To be safe, if you don't know, don't hang about to find out and if you cannot see without getting closer, don't even consider edging in any closer. But if you are aware of what the snake looks like, it might be helpful for a number of reasons, the main one being to know what to do if it does bite you or someone in your group. Another reason it may be helpful is to warn off old Uncle John who insists it's a pussycat of a snake and he'll prove it by picking it up.... From a safe distance, look for:
   
   
   • A flat, triangular-shaped head (although this may not be adequate to mark it) — broader at the base of the head than at the front
   • Heavy-bodied
   • Openings between the nostrils and eyes — these are the heat-sensing pits
   • Hooded eyes and elliptical pupils — these may not be readily apparent and you'll have to be fairly close to see this.
   • Coloration — generally tan and brown patchwork; the Mohave rattlesnake is green, however, and has light bands at its tail end. If you can see these bands with the naked eye, you are probably too close.
   • 

     Juvenile rattler
     A rattle at the end of its tail (made of modified scales). Young rattlesnakes often have only a few parts of the rattler formed — don't be fooled as young are born poisonous. Rattles may also be broken off, malformed or silent. Do not rely on the rattler as the only form of identification. Listen to the rattler sound courtesy of the San Diego zoo: Rattlesnake Sound Byte.
2. Be aware of when and where you are most likely to encounter a rattlesnake. You are most likely to encounter rattlesnakes when you are hiking, climbing, camping, or even walking to see a tourist monument.
   
   
   • Most rattlesnakes prefer hot environments, with some preferring desert climates but others, such as the Eastern Diamondback, prefer a moist climate. The majority live in the southern United States and Mexico, although some are found in Canada's Badlands desert region in Alberta and in British Columbia around Hedley, Keremeos, and Osoyoos.
   • Rattlesnakes like summer evenings the best, just as the sun is going down and when it has gone — they are most active nocturnally in summertime. This just happens to coincide with the frailty of human eyesight kicking in as the sun goes down, so take care. Use a flashlight when walking about and wear good footwear.
   • Rattlesnakes like warm days, period. Be it any season of the year, even winter, a rattlesnake can venture out in search of the warmth — suitable air temperature for rattlesnakes is around 70° and 90°F (21° to 32°C).
   • 

     Yes, look more closely! A timber rattlesnake is in there. (Click to enlarge)
     Most rattlesnakes are not generally sitting about in the open — if they are in the open, they are moving through it much of the time. Rattlesnakes want to avoid contact with predators who can easily spot them in the open, including humans and large animals. As such, you will most likely encounter rattlesnakes around rocks, shrub and brush, or wherever there are nooks for them to hide among. However, on sunny days, you might find rattlesnakes warming themselves on warm rocks or asphalt.
3. Dress appropriately. When in rattlesnake country, do not be blasé about clothing — the majority of bites occur on the hands, feet and ankles. So, apart from not sticking your hands where they shouldn't be, clothing becomes an important protection ally:
   
   
   • Toss the sandals — this is time for good quality, thick hiking boots, and decent socks. Over the ankle boots are best, as ankle bites are common. Do not wear sandals, open-toed shoes or bare feet when walking in the desert. There are more things than rattlesnakes awaiting your foolhardiness if you do.
   • Wear long, loose-fitting pants.
   • Use gaiters if possible, especially if you choose not to wear long pants.
4. 

   Another perfect resting spot ... for the rattlesnake.
   Behave appropriately when hiking, climbing, walking. When in rattlesnake territory, think like a rattlesnake to keep your mind on how they might behave so that you can behave accordingly:
   
   
   • Always hike with at least one buddy. If you are alone and bitten, you will be in dire trouble. Carry a portable phone device that works and alert family or friends of your intended hiking course and duration.
   • Stay out of the way. The easiest way to avoid rattlesnakes is to keep out of their way. Keep alert as you hike, walk, and climb. Stick to well-used trails and do not wander off into tall grass, underbrush and weeds where rattlesnakes may be hiding.
   • Do not stick your hands in the wrong places. Don't stick your hands down holes, under rocks and ledges or even into brush when you are walking around. These are key hiding places for rattlesnakes. When hiking, it is best to carry a sturdy staff, or at least a long, sturdy and light stick, to help prevent using your hands in areas where snakes may hide.
   • Don't sit down on tree stumps or logs without first checking inside. You might just be sitting on a rattlesnake....
   • Step on and not over. When you need to cross logs and rocks, it is sensible to step on the objects rather than straight over them. This way, you can spot a rattlesnake that may be sheltering under it and can take evasive action quickly.
   • Look before you leap. Take care where you land your feet. A foot coming straight down next to, or on top of a snake is asking for a bite. Snakes rely on vibration to hear and while they can sense you coming if you have stomped about loudly enough, they cannot deal with removing themselves fast enough if you blaze up a trail quickly and provide little warning of your approach.
   • Move out of the way. If you do walk into the range of a rattlesnake, calmly back off as quickly and quietly as you can.
   • Take care around water. Rattlesnakes can swim. Anything resembling a long stick might be a rattlesnake.
   • Do not provoke a rattlesnake. Angering a snake will result in one response — you become its target. Remember — a snake is defending itself from attack in such a case and if you poke it with sticks, throw stones at it, kick at it or do silly little jigs around it, you are asking for trouble. And worse still, there may well be a difference in the venom between an angered rattlesnake and one reacting quickly in self-defence — the toxicity may be increased, whereas a surprised rattlesnake may only bite without injecting venom (possible, not certain). Whatever the strength of the venom, an angered rattlesnake will be more likely to keep striking.
   • Leave the snake alone. Many people are bitten in the process of trying to heroically rid the world of one more bothersome snake. Apart from the snake not being bothersome, the snake is going to bite you to try and defend itself. Live and let live — back off and let it have its space to slither away. And be warned — there is a reason for the saying "as mad as a cut snake" — an injured snake is a very, very dangerous foe.
5. Be vigilant when camping. There are risks during camping that you need to address.
   
   
   • Check the campsite before setting up. Arrive in daylight and set up in daylight. On warm nights, rattlesnakes may still be hanging about and if you cannot see what you are doing, you are at risk.
   • Shut the tent flap at night if camping in rattlesnake territory or you may wake up to a very unwelcome surprise. Always check before going to bed that an unwanted guest isn't already lodged inside, attracted by warmth or the interesting hiding possibilities presented by a tent.
   • Make sure all those using the tent keep the flap constantly shut when entering and leaving.
   • Shake out sleeping bags before hopping in. Many an unwary sleeper has been unpleasantly awoken.
   • Take care collecting firewood. Piles of wood are an ideal hiding place for rattlesnakes.
   • Use a flashlight at all times during night walks.
6. Be responsible for all minors in your care. Children and teenagers are naturally curious and bold all at once. While useful in a safe environment, these traits can lead to harm in a dangerous environment. Make sure that young persons understand the dangers of rattlesnakes, know what not to do and know how to behave to avoid a rattlesnake encounter plus how to behave if they do encounter a rattlesnake. In a party of hikers with minors, an adult should always lead and preferably another should bring up the rear.
7. 
   Obey the warning signs! This means those of the snake and those of any humans in charge of warning you of the presence of rattlesnakes:
   
   
   • Recognize the signs of a rattlesnake about to strike. These are general, sometimes there may be a strike without these signs because a rattlesnake can bite from any position if needed:
     
     
     • A rattlesnake in a coiled position — the coil permits the rattlesnake to make its most effective strike
     • The front end of its body (head) is raised
     • Its rattler is shaking and making rattle sound
   • Just to make life a little more difficult, it is important to be aware that rattlesnakes do not or cannot always use their rattler to warn of impending attack. For instance, if you tread on it before it has time to rattle, it'll bite first and leave rattling until later. And sometimes they just don't rattle, for such reasons as being extra defensive during shedding, mating and giving birth. Or, they may prefer to rely on their coloration as camouflage, only to realize that this isn't going to protect them from the impending human feet. Also, wet rattlers do not rattle. There must be at least two segments of a rattle for it to be capable of making sound, therefore young rattlesnakes cannot make the rattle sound until this grows but they remain venomous all the same. Be aware of these possibilities. Otherwise, if you hear that rattle, you are clearly forewarned, so back off.
   • Heed the signs from park rangers and other park authorities. Like the sign in the photo, when you are warned by the local park authorities that rattlesnakes are in the area, take the appropriate precautions set out above.
8. 

   Although these two are wrapped up in their own argument, it does give a good indication of the stretching ability of rattlesnakes
   Note the striking distance of a rattlesnake. A rattlesnake's strike distance can be up to one third to one half of its overall length. It doesn't pay to underestimate a rattlesnake's strength, however, and a rattlesnake might lurch ahead even farther if provoked. The strike of a rattlesnake is faster than the human eye can follow.
9. 

   It's a shock when someone is bitten but it's important to remain calm
   Remain calm if you or somebody else gets bitten. If you do get bitten by a rattlesnake, while serious, the most important thing is remain calm and still — dashing about moves the venom about faster. Key elements are remaining calm, remaining immobilized and getting to a hospital as quickly as possible. If the bite is in the leg area and you have a cloth or towel with you, try wrapping the towel above the bite and applying pressure. This helps prevent more of the venom from reaching the heart. Keep the bite lower than the victim's heart (do not elevate the bite; that will increase circulation and spread the venom more rapidly), wash affected area and remove any potential constrictions such as rings (when swelling occurs constrictions could cause loss of blood flow and necrosis of tissues). For more on the procedure of dealing with a rattlesnake bite, see How to Treat Snakebite.
10. Review these steps before every encounter with rattlesnake territory. Share the information with those traveling with you to alert them to the need to be cautious, calm and considerate of what may be about.

Tips   [edit]

• It is often reported that more people die from wasp and bee stings in the United States than from the bites of rattlesnakes.
• Snakes frighten most people. However, it does help to understand the ecological niche that snakes fill. Importantly, snakes keep down rodent populations that might otherwise be in plague proportions in many places, destroying crops, food storage, and spreading disease. Removing snakes from their original territory is frequently followed by a rise in rodent numbers. Moreover, rattlesnakes are a source of food for predators.
• If trying to remove a rattlesnake from your backyard, call in professionals. Remain calm if faced with the snake when you are in your backyard — level-headedness is essential to dealing with any dangerous situation.
• Most bites occur between April and October, the months during which rattlesnakes are at their most active.
• The Santa Catalina Island Rattlesnake is a rattleless rattlesnake; it lacks the usual rattle segments.
• This is an easy piece of advice to remember (courtesy The Rattlesnake Roundup, Mangum, Oklahoma)- Freeze like a tree, and slowly back away.
• Most people are bitten: 1) when they reach into a hole, 2) when climbing and put their hand on a snake on the "ledge" above, or 3) by stepping directly on or beside a snake.
• Biting snakes are almost always surprised and/or trapped. When walking, 1) carry a stick, and 2) whack bushes and undergrowth a bit before you walk on/near them, and snakes will get away. They'll go under bushes or thick grass immediately, so don't put your feet in/on those places! If you must step on those hiding places, probe them a bit first with your stick, so the snake has a chance to get away.
• Sometimes, smaller snakes can crawl into boats such as kayaks without your knowledge. If this happens to you, remain very calm and pull up to shore. Get out of the boat, and gently direct the snake out of your boat using a paddle or long stick.

• Never pick up what seems to be a dead rattlesnake. It may be resting deeply or simply not moving in a way that is detectable to your eye. Just leave well enough alone.
• Never pick up a freshly killed rattlesnake. It can bite reflexively even though dead.
• Do not cut, suck or drain snakebites — these are old-fashioned methods that have been proven to not work.
• Never put a tourniquet on a limb bitten by a snake. It may cause necrosis and the loss of the limb. Stay calm and seek medical attention.
• Pavement stays warm after sundown. Rattlesnakes may find their way onto a warm road or sidewalk on a cool evening to keep warm. Use caution after sundown when walking on paved roads or sidewalks.
• Rattlesnakes are protected in many areas. Do not kill them unless the situation involves immediate danger to humans or domestic animals. It is senseless and it might land you in jail.

Steps   [edit]

1. Put green paper at the bottom of a shoebox for grass.
2. Make the bugs from beads.
   
   
   • 

     
     Glue four beads together with a hot glue gun to make a butterfly's body. Use paper to make wings and black paint or paper to make eyes and glue them on.
   • Glue or paint two black eyes onto a green bead to make an aphid. Do the same to a gray bead to make a potato bug.
   • Use black paint and a toothpick to make little black dots on a red bead and glue/paint on eyes to make a ladybug.
3. Make a paper or cardboard circle for the spider's body and cut slivers of paper for legs. Glue on legs and googly eyes (or make eyes out of paper).
4. 
   Make a spider web design on a plate or cookie sheet with a hot glue gun. Pour cold water over the web to cool it, then carefully peel it off. Glue the spider onto its web (this can also be made with Elmer's glue, but you'll have to wait for it to dry).
5. Fill a bottle cap or small round container partway up with hot glue. Stick a rock into the glue while it's still hot. Wait for it to harden, then take your "lake" out of the container and place it in the shoe box.
6. Use paper or beads to make leaves and flowers. Fold the leaves in half to carefully cut out a hole in the middle to make them look chewed.
7. Arrange everything in the shoe box and enjoy playing with your Bead Bugland!

Tips   [edit]

• You can remove the rock from the lake after the glue hardens, and then you're able to move the rock in and out.

Warnings   [edit]

• Be careful when using the hot glue gun!
• Watch small kids extra carefully to make sure no beads are swallowed.

• A shoe box
• Construction paper or tissue paper
• Colored beads
• Hot glue gun or Elmer's glue
• Bottle cap or small round container
• Small rock

Steps   [edit]

1. 

   
   Inspect the cable. Change a bike cable if it is frayed or it is getting stiff. When either of these two indicators are present, there may be damage on the inner wire, or often on the outer wire. Any friction in the cable will stop your brakes from returning properly. Check for damage to the outer casing, the cranks, and for any bends in the wires. You'll need to replace both the cable and its outer casing if it is damaged.
2. Obtain the correct cable. It is important to ensure that you have the correct cable. Check the nipple at the end of the cable and see that it matches the cable you are replacing. Brake cables are different for straight handle-bars and drop handle-bars.
3. 

   
   Undo the pinch bolt. Locate the pinch bolt that clamps the cable. Undo it with an Allen key. Don't lose the piece of rubber that slides off the cable or the metal "noodle" - you'll need to put these back on later.
   

   
4. 

   
   Unscrew the adjuster. Find the adjuster next to the brake lever on the handlebar. It is a small barrel that can be turned. Unscrew the adjuster with your fingers.
5. 

   
   Remove the cable. Align the two slots on the adjuster where the brake cable goes through on top of the brake lever. The cable will gently fall out if you ease it.
   

   
6. 

   Hold the old & new outer casings next to one another
   Replace the outer casing. Hold up the new outer casing against the old one so you know the correct length.
   • 

     
     Use the wire cutters to make a clean cut. Check that there is a smooth hole at the incision for the cable to run in and out. Then attach a metal ferrule.
     
     
   • Slide the cable into the hole. Check that it fits well. Slide the rest of the cable into the outer casing.
7. 

   
   Hook the nipple back in. Hook the nipple into the end of the brake lever, and ease into the brake lever and into the two slots in the barrel adjuster. At the other end, thread the cable through the metal "noodle" and push the outer casing into it. Slide on the piece of rubber, placing on the larger end first. This stops dirt getting into your cable. Slide under the cable clamp bolt and thread through.
   • 

     
     Clamp it temporarily with the Allen key. Reconnect the brake by pulling it across and slotting it into the hole. Make sure the metal noodle is bedded down in place.
     

     
8. 

   
   Tighten. Loosen the Allen key bolt and pull the cable through. Hold the cable, loosen the Allen key, pull the cable tight and tighten up again.
9. Perform checks.
   
   
   • 

     
     Pull firmly on the brake lever multiple times to stretch out the new cable. Readjust the tension as necessary.
     
     
   • 

     
     Check that the outer casing is properly located into the cable adjuster and into the noodle.
   • 

     
     Check that the other end of the noodle is in the final slot.
   • 

     
     Pull on the brake lever several times. This will make sure everything is in place. This helps to bed the cable in. If it feels loose, you'll need to tighten it a bit more. When finished, make sure you have tightened the bolt up firmly.
10. Cut the cable. Now is a good time to cut the end of the cable.
    
    
    • 

      
      Leave about 3 inches (7.6 cm) of cable poking out from the brake clamp.
    • 

      
      Attach a cable end cap to stop the end fraying. Squash it into place with either pliers or the end of the cable cutters.
    • 

      
      Hook around by the brake.
11. Do a final check. Make sure your brakes work properly before you go riding.

Warnings   [edit]

• Be sure to check the brakes before going on a ride - you don't want to discover something is malfunctioning as you are speeding downhill!

• A set of Allen keys - Metric! not English. At minimum you will need a 5mm allen key
• A new brake cable
• A length of outer casing for the cable, this is commonly referred to as Cable Housing and is very difficult to cut/size without a proper cable cutting tool.
• A good pair of wire cutters - (Shimano or Park tool, Shimano cable cutters are the best)
• A metal ferrule (ask for one at the bike shop when you buy your cable)
• An end cap (ask for one at the bike shop when you buy your cable)

Steps   [edit]

1. Combine the ingredients for your dough according to the recipe directions. These may simply be water, yeast, and flour for a basic bread, or a complicated list, but you should start with a detailed recipe. Measure the ingredients and mix according to instructions.
2. Mix as much flour in with a spoon as you can.
3. 
   Turn the dough out of the bowl onto a clean, well-floured surface. A wooden board or clean table is best. Make sure it is at a height where you are comfortable working. If it is very moist or sticky, sprinkle additional flour over the top.
4. 
   Gather the dough into a pile and begin pressing it together.
5. 
   Press the heels of your hands firmly into the dough, pushing forward slightly.
6. 
   Fold the far edge of the dough upwards, towards you, and press it into the middle of the ball. Rotate it slightly, too. Repeat this press-fold-turn sequence for the duration of the kneading process.
7. Pinch the dough to see if you're done. Bread dough will become firmer as you knead it, just as winding a spring makes more winding harder. Pinch a bit of dough between your fingers. If it's ready, it will feel like an earlobe. If in doubt, knead a little longer.

Tips   [edit]

• Add flour as necessary to keep the dough from sticking. Generally, if you are making bread, you have added enough flour when the dough mostly stops sticking to the board. The amount will vary somewhat according to the moisture in the loaf. If you are making something else, such as biscuits, add flour according to the recipe plus just enough on the outsides to keep it from sticking too badly.
• Distinguish between bread flour (for yeasted recipes) and pastry flour (for recipes without yeast). The former will help you build gluten. The distinction is more important for whole wheat flour than it is for white or unbleached flour.
• Time your kneading, especially if the recipe suggests a time. 20 minutes can seem like a long time doing the same repetitive activity. Don't cut it short.
• A dough scraper can make cleanup easier. Anything with a straight but fairly blunt edge will do.
• Try not to tear the dough, just stretch it.
• Cool, dry hands are best for kneading.

• It's very difficult to over-knead by hand. It is definitely possible to over-knead with a mixer, though.
• For any pastry not using yeast, you should probably knead only enough to obtain a smooth, even consistency and fully mix the ingredients. For bread, you want to build gluten, but gluten in non-yeasted recipes can make them tough.
• Thoroughly clean your work surface and your hands before and after kneading.

Steps   [edit]

1. 
   Select a cut of meat. Choosing a lean cut like sirloin, top round, eye round, etc... will save time later.
2. Slice your meat into thin strips less than 1/8" thick (sometimes a butcher will do this for you for free if you ask). To make it easier to slice, freeze it for about 30 minutes before slicing. You can cut with or against the grain, but some find that strips cut against the grain are easier to chew. Trim the fat as you go along, since fat does not dry and could make the jerky rancid.
   
   
3. 
   Marinate the meat in a solution of cider vinegar and sea salt, or according to a recipe of your preference. Place in the refrigerator for 4 - 24 hours to allow the meat absorb the flavor. This step is optional; the additional moisture can make dehydration take longer, and the resulting jerky might be stickier.
4. 
   Coat the meat in the seasonings of your choice.
5. Dehydrate the meat. Leave enough room between pieces to allow air to flow around the meat. Avoid letting the meat touch if possible.
   
   
   • 
     In a dehydrator, spray the racks with non-stick cooking spray and place your prepared meat on the racks.
   • In an oven, set the temperature to 150 degrees F (65 degrees C) and allow it to preheat. (Heat is not intended to cook your jerky; gentle heat aids in the dehydration process by causing the moisture to evaporate.) Place your prepared meat on a wire rack over a cookie sheet.
6. 
   Wait and watch. Making jerky is not a quick process. Since temperatures, humidity levels, and slice thickness will vary, there can be no set time for the process to complete. Usually it will take between 6 - 12 hours. Check the consistency of the jerky regularly after 6 hours until it meets your satisfaction. You might have to cut into the jerky to ensure that it is not raw inside. Jerky should turn a deep brown or burgundy colour.
7. 
   Place the fresh jerky in plastic bags and store in the refrigerator or freezer until ready to eat. Enjoy the homemade jerky within one week of its preparation.

Tips   [edit]

• Be swift. The meat should be dried as quickly as possible, to limit bacterial growth. Cutting the meat into thin slices dramatically shortens drying time. Placing the meat in a freezer for an hour or two before cutting will make it easier to cut thinly.
• Do not allow the jerky to become too dry or it will become hard and unpleasant. It should be the consistency of rubber.
• Traditionally, beef jerky was smoked or salted to preserve and flavor the meat at the same time.
• Ideally, the jerky should be vacuum sealed in plastic with a pouch of oxygen absorber in order to retard spoilage, but this is not practical in most home situations.
• For a vegetarian version of this, try using seitan (wheat protein) or marinated tofu. Tweak the recipe accordingly.
• Use Braggs soy sauce, Black pepper, Pinch of cayanne, smoke the meat before dehydrating or use liquid smoke and you will have the best jerky you have ever had. Be sure you let it marinate over night.
• Try a soy sauce based marinade. Some excellent flavoring agents include Adobo seasoning, red pepper flakes, cayenne pepper, powdered ginger, sesame oil, cajun seasoning

• This is not commercial beef jerky and therefore does not contain preservatives. Please take proper precautions to preserve your jerky (i.e. refrigerate or freeze) and consume it promptly.
• Sun drying can lead to spoilage, and you will have a difficult time keeping the insects away.

Steps   [edit]

1. 
   Find the ears that are just right. A farmer only has a short period of time between when the corn is too small to be edible and when it's too big to be edible. Of course, everybody's got their own definition of what's too big to be edible! You can determine if it's just right by shaking hands with the corn. If the corn cob fills your hand nicely and the silk on the top is brown, it's ready to pick. If it feels too scrawny, leave it for another day.
2. 
   Have a seat and take all the husks off the corn once you've picked enough corn to keep you busy all day - a couple of hundred ears of corn should do it.
3. 
   Put the corn in containers or in a spot where you can keep an eye on your newly harvested bounty -- there are always critters (whether on the farm or in your backyard) that are looking for the easy mark and they will take your fresh corn away from you if you're not looking.
4. 
   Clean the corn--unless of course you're the type of person who doesn't mind a bit of silky natural floss stuck between your teeth when you're done eating. It's best when you get the corn all clean and shiny with none of the little silky hairs sticking to it. This is kind of a painstaking and sticky job. It helps to keep a bowl of water on the table while working to dip your hands into, otherwise you end up acting like Spiderman with everything you touch sticking to your hands.
5. 
   Move into the kitchen once the corn's all cleaned up. Shown here is one day's harvest (about 500 ears) all ready to be cooked.
6. 
   Blanch the corn. There are other methods of preparing and cooking the corn, but many believe this method gives the best taste. Blanching means you put the corn in the water, put the lid on, then you look the other way while bringing the water to a rolling boil.
7. 
   Take the corn out when the water's boiling and cool it down as quickly as you can. Once you take out one batch and put in the next, the fresh corn cools the water down a bit and you have to start over again, so it takes about 5-10 minutes to boil each batch. Now comes the hard part. You've got to cool the corn quickly, which is easy if you're doing 10 ears of corn. But how do you cool 500 ears of corn in a row? If you just put it in the water, the water gets warm and loses its cooling ability. You can put ice in the water, or you can keep changing the water, but both of those methods are for small batches.
   
   
   • 
     Here's the farmer's solution to this problem. Use the right side of the sink to cool the hot ears just off the stove, then move the lukewarm ears to the left side of the sink to finish up the cooling. Cold water trickles in from the faucet into the left hand side of the sink (1). The magic happens in part 2, which is just a simple upside-down U-shaped pipe that acts as a siphon to move the cold water from the left side to the right side. You start by dunking these pipes under the water to get all the air bubbles out of them, putting your thumbs over the ends of the pipes to hold the water in, then put it over the divider in the sink. If you've done it right, the pipes are still full of water. When the water in the left side is higher than the right side, it will flow through the pipes and into the right hand side.
   • 
     The second little bit of magic is the overflow pipe in the right hand sink. It's an S-shaped piece of copper tubing which stands up in the sink just short of the top and it runs down into the drain. When the water gets higher than the top of the pipe, it spills down into the pipe and goes down the drain. So now we've created a waterfall type of system where cold water enters a point 1, moves through the pipes in point 2, then exits at point 3. By the time it exits in point 3, it's actually pretty warm water because you keep dumping the boiling corn into that side.
   • 
     When you remove the boiling corn from the stove, you'll want to dump it in the right hand side of the sink. The water on the right will be warm, but you'll have a continuous trickle of cool water coming through the siphon pipes. Give someone the job of agitating the corn by stirring it around in the sink. That's a job that the kids love to do, so usually that's the youngest person, although sometimes it's just the most tired person.
   • 
     When the person cooking on the stove is ready to remove their corn, the agitator removes the cold corn from the left side of the sink and sends that on to the next step, then they move the warm corn from the right side to the left side of the sink. The hot corn from the stove is then dumped in to the lukewarm water on the right side of the sink.
8. 
   Cut the corn off the cob once the corn has been blanched and cooled so that the ears are cool to the touch. This takes a little feel so that you get enough corn without getting too much of the cob. This one is probably the most highly skilled of positions in the process and takes some practice.
9. 
   Chill the corn. Once the corn is off the cob, put it into cake pans for a good chilling. Cake pans work well because they spread out the corn and transfer the heat nicely.
   
   
   • 
     To do this right, you'll need about 6-8 cake pans and a completely empty refrigerator. Put the pans into the freezer of an old refrigerator, then move them from the freezer down on to the shelves of the refrigerator as you get new pans filled. The warmest ones go in the freezer, and the cooler ones get moved into the refrigerator until you're ready to bag it.
10. 
    Bag the corn. Once the pans of corn are completely cooled, you're almost done - all that's left is to package the corn up for final freezing. Use quart and pint Ziploc baggies. You don't want them totally full, just enough so you can close them easily and then flatten them out so they store easily. A quart baggie is about enough for one meal for 4-5 people, and a pint baggie works well for 2 people.
11. 
    Clean up. Take out the garbage and mop that floor. Send the cobs to the compost pile and look forward to eating corn whenever you want.

Tips   [edit]

• If you're harvesting the corn yourself, start picking it early in the morning. It's a great feeling when you walk through the corn field and the dew is still on the grass and on the corn stalks.
• 500 ears of corn should yield about 60-65 quart bags of frozen corn. It takes four or five people about eight hours to do the entire process, and you end up with enough to provide an entire family with corn for most of the year. Even though it sounds like a lot of work, it's a process that's been passed down for several generations, and once your kids learn how, they will always want to be there to help out if possible.
• To cook the frozen corn, take the bag out of the freezer and put it into a covered glass dish. Microwave a quart bag for about 6-8 minutes. Add some butter and salt to taste and you'll have fresh tasting corn in minutes.
• For another southern recipe, fry a few slices of bacon in a frying pan. Add a few slivers of onion (optional) and cook until the onion is clear. Add the corn and steam until the corn is done...This is delicious!
• A large rubbermaid tub works well for cooling corn also. Place a 30-gallon rubbermaid tub outside and drop in your garden hose. Leave the water running through the entire process and you will always have chilly water to cool off the corn.

Warnings   [edit]

• If you're in a corn field, be careful to look for and step over any electric fence used to keep raccoons away.
• Keep things clean so that you don't end up with contaminated food.
• Although the raw corn tastes delicious and it's tempting to nibble, don't eat too much of it, because raw corn will give you a good case of the runs!

• Lots of corn
• Big pan for boiling the corn
• Some sharp knives
• 6-8 empty cake pans
• A mostly empty refrigerator and freezer
• Ziploc baggies

Steps   [edit]

1. Position cones on either side of the car to represent a street. This will help you, and challenge you as you can force yourself to attempt tighter and tighter turns.
2. Approach the turn as far to the right as possible (this is an exterior approach).
3. Brake before the corner and accelerate out of it. Read the instructions on braking. While you are braking, keep the vehicle as straight as possible; turning while braking will increase the distance your vehicle requires to turn or stop.
4. 

   Perfect path for 90 degree turn
   Make a 90-degree turn (or less) by going from the right (exterior), getting as close to the concrete without hitting it (apex), then exiting the turn as far to the right as possible (exterior).
   
   
   • This gives you the straightest line possible (that is, the line with the greatest turning radius); naturally, it is also the fastest line. This line gives you the best traction, and the best efficiency for laying down power coming out of the turn.
5. Make a 90-135-degree turn by once again approaching from the right (exterior), but this time use the handbrake (if available) to bring the back of your car around. You may need a little cooperation from your vehicle.
   
   
   • A mid-sized sedan with a tight handbrake will not need more than a second of tire-lock, so do not use it for too long, else you will spinout. If a handbrake is not available (i.e.: your vehicle has a foot-base emergency brake), then you will have to just take the corner a little slower, so follow the 90-degree turn instructions.
6. Make a more than a 135-degree turn with an e-brake turn. Do not slow down as much as you would have normally for the turn. Instead, drive a few feet past the turn (5 or more feet).
   
   
   • While still going at a decent speed and going straight, pull the e-brake. Once the rear tires have locked up, turn the wheel to the left. The car's back end will spin around and point you almost in 180-degrees of your original course. Release the e-brake and drive off.
   • With a bit of practice, you should be able to release your e-brake earlier, which will allow your vehicle to be pointed in the exact direction you desire (instead of a full 180-degrees).

Tips   [edit]

• The tighter the turn you make, the slower it must be taken, but if you play your cards right, and make the turn faster than the other guy, then it might give you the edge you need.
• Many cars have a "foot rest" or flat spot on the left side of the floorboard. This is actually called a dead pedal and should be used in fast turns. By pressing down with your left foot, you force your body back into the seat, thereby minimizing any upper body movement created from lateral g-forces. This allows you more precise control with the steering wheel.
• Any of these maneuvers done with a RWD or AWD vehicle should not be with any "drifting" style (with your back-end sliding as you accelerate). Keeping your back-end "tidy" is always the fastest way around the corner.
• If your tires are slipping under power to the point that the back-end swings out, you are giving it too much gas, and easing off the gas a bit will actually get you through the turn quicker. Be cautious though, suddenly lifting off the gas will transfer weight to the front and cause the rear end to swing out even more possibly causing you to lose control. The key is balance.
• Tight turns require a lot of precision to be fast. Practice is essential to perform well.
• If your car understeers when you enter the turn (just after you let off the brakes) try staying on the brakes a little longer, or releasing them a little earlier. Releasing the brakes at the point of turn-in will release a lot of available down-pressure on your front tires.
• Originally, sliding or drifting was done by rally racers who did this with the intention of holding more speed through the corner. Sliding changes how you enter and exit a corner, but typically you will hold more speed and therefore, get through the corner faster.
• Smooth use of the brakes and the accellerator is also essential, as smooth release and pressing of the accellerator will eliminate wheel lock up and wheel spin on the entrys and exits of corners, which saps speed.

• Obviously, these maneuvers can be very dangerous and may result in serious injury or death. Tactical or technical driving should only be done in emergency situations, when no other choice is available.
• Keep in mind that while drifting/sliding may be the quickest off road, for asphalt these techniques are definitely NOT the quickest way around a corner. If it were they would use this technique in Formula One. The quickest way is the smoothest way. Sliding looks flashy but it's SLOW- on pavement.
• Any practicing you do should not be done on public streets! Your own private property is the best.
• Always drive safely. Be observant of pedestrians and other vehicles.
• Never break the law! Obey speed limits, research state and local laws, and be sure to obey all the laws.
• While practice is crucial, it should be noted that many of the maneuvers can cause damage to vehicles. Alignment, engine mounts, bearings and many other parts can suffer wear or malfunctions. Some people use a cheap "practice car" to practice with.
• Some SUVs have a history of rolling when confronted with extreme maneuvering.
• It should be noted that when using the parking brake in a RWD or AWD, it is imperative that you have the clutch depressed and the motor disengaged, or else you will stall the car. Depending on the types of differentials in your AWD car, using the parking brake while moving could very well destroy your differentials/drivetrain as well.

Steps   [edit]

1. 
   Cut ¾ of the stem off each pepper and insert a wooden (not plastic) chopstick through the stem, pushing until it is inserted into the pepper completely. The chopstick will serve as a skewer so you can rotate the peppers and remove them from the flame once they are done roasting. Alternately, you can forgo the chopsticks and use tongs instead.
2. Turn gas stove to medium-high or high. You want a fairly large flame to ensure the quickest roasting time and sufficient blackening. Lower temperatures will require more gas and time to roast the peppers. You may want to line the stovetop with aluminum foil before lighting the flame, as this procedure can get messy.
3. 
   Place the peppers on the burners, making sure they are close to the flame.
4. 
   Leave the peppers over the flame, constantly monitoring them and listening for cracking noises. These noises simply tell you the skin is cracking and that the peppers are roasting. This is a good sign.
5. 
   Rotate each pepper once the skin has blackened in a certain area. You should rotate the peppers so that the entire surface is black and crispy. Don’t worry about that pitch black color. The flesh underneath will be perfectly fine.
6. Remove peppers from the heat once they are totally blackened. There are several ways you can proceed to cool the peppers.
   
   
   • Put them in a paper bag and close it. This will steam the peppers and aid in removing the skins. You can also place the peppers in a bowl and cover with plastic wrap, or seal in a zip-top freezer bag, or put into a saucepan with the lid on.
   • 
     Alternatively, plunge them immediately into an ice water bath. The ice water will stop the cooking process and facilitate the removal of the peppers’ skins. This method, however, is more likely to pull flavor out of the peppers.
7. 
   Rub the peppers between your fingers, or scrape off the skin with your hands. Once all the skin is off, place peppers on a cutting board.
8. 
   Cut the tops off each pepper and slice down one side, exposing the inner seed cavity. Scrape off the white membrane and seeds and discard. This can also be done by hand under running water.

Tips   [edit]

• Rinse off peppers before roasting. They might contain chemical and/or organic residues.
• All kinds of peppers can be roasted. Red bells, green chile, and jalapeños are among the most common types of peppers roasted.
• Soak wooden skewers in warm water for 10 minutes before placing peppers on for roasting. This will help keep them from burning and breaking in the process.
• It's fine if a few bits of charred skin remain on the peppers. They'll add even more flavor.
• If you don't have gloves, you can use a heavy-duty paper towel to remove skins. This works especially well if the peppers are really hot (in both heat and flavor).
• Washing hands in liquid soap and salt, or lemon juice, will help get rid of the smell and "hotness" on your hands and fingers.
• Washing hands in a mix of oil (food oil) and soap before using the water, can reduce the "hotness" a lot - this is because the hot parts of the chili plants can not be dissolved with water

• If roasting hot peppers, there are a few precautions.
  
  
  • Because the fumes can irritate your eyes, nose, and lungs, you may want to consider wearing goggles or a mask if this becomes a problem.
  • Wear gloves. Once the hot oils settle into your skin, there's not much you can do to get rid of the burning pain but wait. Only time (12-24 hours depending on the strength of the oils) will allow it to wear off. At the very least, use gloves when removing the seeds, but if you don’t have a pair lying around, make sure to wash your hands before touching anything else, especially your eyes.
  • Also, make sure the kitchen is well ventilated so noxious fumes can leave.
• You may become addicted to the aroma that roasting green chiles produces. If so, you’ll probably spend more money than you should just to experience the scent over and over again.
• Watch out if you are using wooden skewers, they may burn and start a fire!
• MAKE SURE YOU NEVER touch your eyes after peeling hot, spicy peppers. It will severely irritate them for several minutes.

Steps   [edit]

1. Select a usable suit to start your ghillie suit with. Some basic suits can be bought easily.
   
   
   • Expensive suits can be bought which already have a good deal of camouflage built in. It will likely look like a basic camo with flap on it.
   • Cheaper suits can also be bought which only break up your outline (no camo; only a solid color), but with a few branches and such from your surrounding attached, can blend in quite nicely.
2. Sew knots of netting to the fabric with transparent thread like fishing line. Apply a drop of glue for extra strength.
3. Tie groups of 5 to 10 strands of jute to the netting with simple knots. Use various colors.
4. Season the webbing by dragging it behind a vehicle, soaking it in mud, or applying manure. This will help eliminate human scent, especially if the ghillie suit will be used for hunting purposes.
5. 

   Camouflaged Sniper
   Select items from your setting to keep the best profile. If you are in a wooded area, for example, attach small branches and leaves to the upper half of the suit and feather it to the bottom with items such as grass or twigs.
6. Attach more items to the back of the suit. Sneaking in a ghillie suit usually involves crawling. Items on your stomach or chest as you belly-crawl will likely get damaged or make noise.
7. Attach wider items around your head and neck. The human head is the most commonly identified part of the body. The shoulders and neck exaggerate the head. When standing still, your outline must be broken to prevent easy identification.
8. 

   
   Be aware of your setting as it changes. If it is possible to stay in your setting as you get from point A to point B, do so. Otherwise, you'll have to incorporate the materials of the new setting you're moving into as you go along.

Tips   [edit]

• Often basic ghillie suits can be bought which are a net poncho with flaps attached to it. This is a great start as it breaks up your outline and gives you many locations to attach items to it.
• The most important part of a ghillie suit is to break up your outline, as you may be much more easily spotted if you keep a human-shaped silhouette.
• Use burlap and camo netting to cover your gun, face, and boots! It's a shame to see ghillie suits given away by black boots sticking out of the back.
• Test the suit by giving a friend a pair of binoculars and seeing if he can spot you in a forested area.
• After a couple of days, new attachments will be required as green plants will turn color and dry up.

• Do not think you are invisible while wearing a ghillie suit. Often your location is just as important as your camouflage.
• Be aware of lighting and gleaming objects around that may give away your position.
• The human eyes (and most other mammals' eyes) are very perceptive to movement. A good deal of being sneaky (even with a ghillie suit) is slow, steady, and calculated movement.
• Ghillie suits tend to be heavy and hot. The temperature inside a ghillie suit can reach over 120 °F (50 °C) in moderate climates.
• The materials from which ghillie suits are made (jute, burlap, etc.) are quite flammable. If using a ghillie suit in a military setting where smoke grenades, white phosphorus, and fires are a possibility, consider treating the suit with a fire-retardant product.
• Avoid using poison ivy or other poisonous vegetation that may cause an allergic reaction.
• If you are hoping to use the suit for hunting, be aware of laws and other hunters. You don't want to face a hefty fine or, worse, a bullet because of your camouflage.

Steps   [edit]

1. Buy a harness made specifically for felines.
2. Begin training before your cat's regular meal time, when they're most receptive.
3. 

   
   Allow the cat to smell the harness.
4. 

   
   Put the harness on the cat. Clip on the leash if it isn't already part of the harness. The cat will probably do one of two things: sit very still, crouching low to the floor, or squirm in a frantic panic. Stay calm and don't interfere unless the cat seems like it will hurt itself. This is also a good time to watch and make sure the cat can't squeeze out of its harness -- they can be incredible contortionists.
5. Immediately give your cat his regular meal.
6. 

   
   Allow the cat to walk (and lounge) freely in the harness for 1-3 hours, then take it off.
7. Repeat this process for however long it takes for your cat to feel comfortable.
8. Set a path through your home to walk after your cat gets used to the harness. This is essential if your cat has never been outside and you want to train it to walk with you before exposing it to the outdoors.
9. Choose a route on which to walk the cat outside, and walk it solo for the first few times to see if it's also a route used by dog walkers. Being confronted with a dog may cause your cat to panic and escape, so it's important to try to prevent this. You can also prepare a cat carrier to bring on your walks and so that you can secure the cat in it if you see a dog coming your way.
10. 

    
    Leave the front door open and start making your walks gradually further in that direction. Guide your cat, (don't pull), to the door.
11. 

    
    Take your cat outside for 5 minute increments, 3-5 times a day, gradually increasing the amount of time outside. Call the cat as you walk it and be consistent in where you walk the cat each time. Eventually the cat will become familiar with the process, but you must be patient.
12. 

    
    Give the cat a treat as soon as you get home, and eventually your cat will love going for a walk.

Tips   [edit]

• Start as soon as your cat has been weaned--generally around six or seven weeks of age. Young kittens are more receptive to a leash and if your cat grows up with walking on one it will become second nature.
• Let the cat become comfortable with the harness. Start by laying the harness by him or placing it in his bed so he gets used to the leash and learns to think of it as something familiar. Then, after a week, place it on the cat for short periods of time until no longer objects to wearing it.
  • 

    
    Be patient if your cat panics and tries to hide. This will be more common for cats who aren't used to being outside. Wait for it to calm down, then gently urge it out of its hiding spot.
• Let your cat walk on its own terms. Cats are finicky creatures by nature, and cannot be forced into walking with you; let the cat set the pace, if you can. Don't forget who is the owner, and who's the pet.
• It can be helpful to hold the cat while walking it for awhile; this helps the cat get used to the route.
• If you want to have playtime for your cat in the backyard make sure the leash is too short to hop over the fence (see Warnings) and never leave the cat alone.
• You could also make the garden cat-friendly and fenced off so the cat can play safely without the leash. This can be done without very much visible interference to your garden.

• Walking an indoor cat on a leash outdoors may make the cat less afraid of the outdoors and more likely to escape through an open door, then get lost, hit by a car, or attacked by a feral cat or other animal.
• Never loosen your hold on the leash. The cat may become startled and suddenly bolt away, taking the leash with it.
• Never leave the cat on the leash in the backyard alone. The cat may try and hop over the fence and get stuck, resulting in an imminent cat funeral.
• If the cat runs up a tree, immediately try to get it down or seek help quickly. The harness is a liability to a climbing cat desperately seeking a safe haven.
• Do not yank on the leash; this may hurt the cat or make it angry and it will squirm to get out of the harness.
• Keep an eye out for dogs. Dogs that are large or not under their owner's control could lunge for your kitty. When in doubt, pick up your cat and turn your body slightly, hiding the cat from the dog's view. This makes it less likely for the dog to attack and for your cat to bolt.
• Some cats will never take to a harness - some merely fall on their sides and lie as if dead - they will "recover" if left to themselves, but any pressure on the harness causes a relapse and the "walk" quickly turns into a "drag". These cats are amusing as entertainment, but cannot be walked as such.

Steps   [edit]

1. Choose a location for your tree. A warm, sunny, southern or western exposure is best. Shelter is a big help, too, if cold is a concern. Choose or create someplace with well-drained soil, and avoid putting a citrus tree directly into a lawn. A nearby reflective wall, fence, or even patio can provide both shelter and a bit of extra warmth, too.
2. 

   Man and tree
   Select and obtain a tree.
   
   - Choose the type of citrus (oranges, lemons, grapefruit, etc.) you would like to try growing.
   
   - Ask the nursery about the climate that the particular tree is suitable for.
   
   - If you live somewhere that's a bit colder than a strictly Mediterranean climate, look into cultivars bred for cold resistance.
   
   - Taste the fruit, if you have the opportunity. Not all oranges are alike. If you can taste fruit grown on a tree in your area, perhaps from a neighbor, even better.
   
   - Find out if the fruit produced has many seeds, or not.
   
   - Ask for certification of the health of the tree, or ask someone who's experienced with citrus trees to inspect it. See Warnings.
3. Choose a size of tree that is appropriate for your setting. Ask at the nursery or look up online how large the mature tree will get.
   
   
   • 

     A dwarf citrus garden: myer lemon, cara cara navel orange, mineola tangelo, and meiwa kumquat
     Try dwarf citrus trees if you are short on space. You can even grow them in large pots, and they open up the possibility of covering the entire tree in a shelter during the delicate winter months or even bringing the tree indoors. Even though they are small, dwarf citrus trees can produce a very reasonable harvest.
   • On the other end of the spectrum, a couple of large lemon trees can form a good-sized hedgerow. It all depends on just how much citrus you want.
4. Dig a large hole. The saying goes that you should dig at least a $60 hole for a $20 tree. As a practical matter, make sure you know where you want to place the tree, then dig a hole that is about three feet (1 meter) in diameter and as deep as the container. Do not bury the root crown, the transition from trunk to roots, as this will cause problems down the road. Plant the tree slightly higher than the surrounding soil to allow for some settling, most container grown nursery stock has high organic matter content that will decompose causing the plant to settle in the planting hole dropping the root crown below grade if not planted slightly high.
   
   
   • If you have any concerns about drainage, such as in heavy clay soil, fill the hole with water and see how long it takes to drain out. If you have drainage problems (that is, if the water is not gone by the next morning), dig the hole even deeper and plant the tree up higher.
   • For a dwarf citrus tree, select a large pot. Try for two feet in diameter or a half-barrel, at least.
5. Partially refill the hole with good, well-draining soil. Depending on the quality of what you took out of the hole, you might try a half-and-half mixture of compost and the now-loosened soil. Create a mound of soil in the middle of the hole that supports the root ball with the crown (the base of the tree trunk where the roots begin)slightly above it.
   
   
   • Mix in some citrus fertilizer with the soil, if you like.
   • If you are planting a dwarf citrus in a pot, use straight potting soil and fill it in to a similar level. Place the pot up on blocks and be sure there are plenty of drainage holes in the bottom. Don't let the pot sit directly in a saucer or puddle of water.
6. Remove the tree from its pot and remove any burlap around the roots. Place the tree on the mound of soil. Add or remove soil underneath to adjust the height so that the crown is level with the soil or even slightly above it.
7. Fill in the remaining hole with a mixture of compost or potting soil and the soil from your garden.
   
   
   • If you are using a pot, fill with straight potting soil. Leave at least two inches at the top to allow space to water thoroughly.
8. 

   Mulch is more than an attractive backdrop.
   Apply Mulch generously (3 to 4 inches deep)over your tree's entire root zone. It will keep the weeds down and the water in.
   
   
   • Stay away from organic mulch, as it increases the likelihood of foot rot disease.
   • A safe bet is that the roots are at least as wide as the branches, so make the mulch area at least this large. You can even add a rim of mulch around the circumference of the circle to aid in watering.
   • Do not mulch right up to the base of the trunk. Leave a little margin so that the crown has breathing room and doesn't stay wet when you water.
9. 
   Water the tree at least weekly until it is established, unless you get sufficient rain to do the job. Water even mature citrus trees regularly. Citrus trees have relatively shallow, broad root systems. Once established, the trees may tolerate some drought, but they won't produce fruit that's as good.
10. Fertilize the tree with an appropriate fertilizer. Fertilizers are available in citrus or citrus-and-avocado formulations. Apply them according to package instructions, typically three to four times a year for slow-release types.
11. Prune citrus trees occasionally. They don't require heavy or regular pruning.
    
    
    • 

      Suckers growing out of the root stock.
      Remove any "suckers", or shoots growing from the root stock. Citrus trees are grafted, meaning that a tree with desirable fruit is cut and attached to a sturdier root stock. You don't want the root stock taking over.
    • Remove any "wild" shoots growing beyond the general shape of the tree. These will often be long, straight, quick-growing branches that don't follow the overall form or shape of the tree.
    • Moderately thin the foliage if it grows excessively dense, to promote air circulation and availability of light.
    • Generally, train citrus trees as shrubs or hedges. If you'd like to remove a few lower branches to give it more of a tree shape, go ahead, but don't overdo it.
12. 

    Ready to pick.
    Harvest fruit when it is fully ripe. Oranges, lemons, and grapefruit should all be completely free of green coloring. They will not ripen off the tree. Limes are generally picked green, so go by size and season. See the external links for more details on limes.

Tips   [edit]

• Most citrus trees bloom fragrantly starting in early winter and developing through spring, then produce small, green fruits that mature through the summer and fall, but there are some ever-bearing varieties, especially for lemons. They may not truly produce the whole year, but their season will be longer, at least.
• 

  Kumquats.
  Don't forget the less-common citrus fruits. Growing your own can be a great way to get some unusual fruits. If you'd like, try growing kumquats, blood oranges, tangerines, mandarin oranges, or pomelos.
  • Certain more exotic types of citrus require more specialized care. Lemons, limes, grapefruit, and oranges have all been cultivated into many varieties, so you will probably be able to find something suited to your conditions and needs. For the various other sorts, it's worth reading up on the specific fruit of interest. Try a web search on your variety or cultivar.
  • Don't let this put you off growing these other fruits; do read up a bit before you plant them.
• Don't hesitate to grow citrus trees because you think they will take a long time to produce fruit. It isn't necessarily so. You may even find trees at the nursery with a few fruits already on them. If you don't get fruit the first year or two, don't give up.
• To give your new citrus trees a head start on life, you might want to remove that first year's fruit (i.e. "pinch" it as it starts to form). It will let the plant put its first year of energy into establishing healthy roots and branches rather than into growing fruit, and it will be more likely to produce fruit (a lot of it) in the following years.
• Try some of the sweeter lemons, such as Meyer lemons.
• Look up the "fruit salad tree" or, if you're really adventurous, make your own. It is possible to take a citrus tree and graft on branches of various other citrus fruits. The resulting tree may be more delicate and less productive, but if you really want to, you can get oranges, lemons, and limes from the same tree.

• In citrus producing areas and other parts of the US, if there is an "epidemic" of any contagious diseases or pests, the Dept. of Agriculture may come on a person's property, rip out the trees, and haul them away to be burned. That is why it's important to ensure the health of a tree before buying it.
• Full-sized lemon trees can make a lot of lemons. Think about what you will do with that many before you plant them.
• 
  Look out for thorns. Some citrus trees grow long, sharp thorns, and getting citrus juice in the cuts from these thorns is absolutely painful. Look closely, and wear gloves or use a long-handled fruit picker.
• Too much of a good thing, including fertilizer, is no longer a good thing. Fertilize according to package instructions and don't overdo it. Excess fertilizer (either too much or too often) can lead a plant to grow too fast and weaken the plant and leech into ground water or run off into the surrounding environment.
• Don't plant your tree near septic tank lines, or the roots may eventually cause issues with clogging.
• Use caution when handling the fruit as the citric acid can cause eye-irritation.

Steps   [edit]

1. Keep alert and always report suspicious incidents to the authorities. If a student or co-worker threatens to bring a knife or a gun, for example, report this to a teacher or supervisor. You might prevent a disaster by doing so. If there are students or coworkers who lawfully carry weapons or tools, they will be able to explain this to your supervisor.
2. Know what the procedure is that is already in place. Many schools and workplaces have "lockdown" procedures. An example of this could be that the students hide in the corner of their classroom, out of sight of doors and windows, while the teacher locks the door and turns off the lights. If you are in the halls, you might be expected to run inside the nearest classroom. Whatever it is, know what it is, and if there is no procedure in place, talk to a teacher or boss about creating one right away.
3. Respond to the sound of gunshots according to your situation:
   
   
   • If you are in the same area as the shooter, find cover, fast. If the shooter opens fire, attempt to take cover behind heavy furniture or any other heavy obstacle. If there is nothing close, simply drop to the floor and lie flat. This will protect your vital organs and make you a smaller target to the shooter. Lying flat could also make the shooter mistake you for dead. Remain quiet and still, but if the shooter is about to shoot you, do anything you can to stop them.
     
     
     • Try talking to the shooter if you know them, but use caution. You could possibly change their mind, but remember, if they have a gun in their hand, they may not be convinced by anything.
     • Attacking an armed assailant is unwise unless you have absolutely no other option. They have likely already decided to shoot people, and threatening them will likely result in the deaths of you and even more around you. Leave attacking the gunman to those equipped and trained to do so.
     • Do whatever you have to do to stay alive, even if it means attacking the shooter. To disarm an armed assailant, you'll need to take his focus off his or her weapon and plan of attack. To do this, you might throw chairs, laptops, or fire extinguishers, or set off the sprinkler system or fire alarm. Then, pick up a desk or some other shield and charge right at the shooter. There's a chance you'll be killed in the process, but if two or three people rush at once, there's also a chance that somebody will take the shooter down. Unarmed civilians who band together have a much better chance of surviving an attack.
     • If you're already within a step or two of the shooter, you might be able to grab his or her weapon. If the shooter is facing you, quickly reach up and take hold of the barrel, and then aim it away from your body. The move should be as clean and economical as possible. The gunman will reflexively pull the gun back away from you. Follow the movement, gripping the gun and push your weight forward. Then, punch him in the face or the throat as hard as you can. Hit him on the nose, jab your fingers into his eyes, or strike him with the heel of your open palm. Then use your free hand to grab the nonbusiness end of the gun. With two hands on the gun, you can knee the attacker in the groin. A better idea might be to twist your hands like they are revving a motorcycle engine. The weapon will pivot and break the gunman's finger inside the trigger guard.
   • If you see the shooter, running away should be your first plan, when possible. At 20 feet from the gunman, you're still within a deadly range, but at 40 feet, you're a difficult shot. If he starts to shoot as you're making your escape, run in a zigzag or another unpredictable pattern. This will decrease your chances of being hit. Seek an exit, or if you have to, hide in a room, preferably with windows, so you have a way of escaping the room if you have to. Lock or barricade the door and turn off the lights. If a door will not lock, barricade it with tables and chairs. You might want to do this anyway just in case. If there is a phone in the room, Call the emergency services (911/999/112) as soon as the door is locked and blocked. If you don't have time, call and leave the phone off the hook. The police will automatically come to see if there is a problem.
   • If you hear gunshots and are in a room, lock the door or barricade it, turn off the lights, and hide quietly in a place in the room that is out of sight of doors and windows. If there are others in the room, tell them to stay in the room hiding and to remain quiet. You shouldn't leave the room since you don't know where the shooter is. Call the emergency services (911/999/112) if there is a phone. Stay in the room until help arrives.
   • If you hear gunshots and you are in the halls, find the nearest way out of the building, or run to a room that you can hide in. It would be better to leave the building, but if the nearest exit is not in sight, run into the nearest room, preferably with windows, to hide.
   • If you hear gunshots and are in a bathroom, your best bet is to remain in the bathroom. The shooter could be right outside after all and probably won't waste their time checking the bathrooms. Lock the bathroom door if you are able to. If there is soap, put it on the floor near the door to make it slippery. It may seem silly, but there is a good chance the shooter could slip and you could make your escape. Another thing you can do is go into a stall, lock it, and crouch on the toilet seat to hide. Call the emergency services (911/999/112) if you have a cell phone on you, but stay as quiet as possible.
   • 

     Call the emergency services as soon as it is safe to do so.
     If you hear gunshots and are outside, go in the opposite direction from where you heard the gunshots. Call the emergency services (911/999/112) as soon as you are far enough away. Assist other people that are fleeing the building after you call.
4. Wait for help to arrive. Before you open the door to someone that says "police" or "paramedics" be aware that it could be the shooter trying to get you to open the door. Ask them questions and make sure that they are actually police or someone trying to help you.
5. Be as helpful as possible to the authorities. Tell them everything you know. Police officers are now getting new training in how to deal with school shootings, so they don't have to wait for SWAT.

Tips   [edit]

• Remain calm. It will be very hard to remain calm, but you'll need your sanity to survive.
• Do not hesitate. Every second counts.
• Remember to help those around you if you can. If someone is shot, tend to them as quickly as you can.
• Call emergency services (911/999/112) before calling friends and family unless you think they are in immediate danger.
• Carry around something that you can use to defend yourself, such as pepper spray or a taser.
• Have support for conflict resolution, character building, and psychological support in schools and workplaces. Troubled individuals often have a history of social problems, and identifying and helping resolve these issues can prevent school and workplace shootings.
• Seek therapy afterward, if the event was deeply troubling for you.
• When necessary and escaping through an upper-floor window, find a drain pipe or a ledge that can slow your descent or let you slide down part of the way. You'll likely hurt your ankles when you land, so be prepared to break the fall with a quick roll. Protect your body by rolling over one shoulder, diagonally across the back and onto the opposite hip. It is better to escape with a couple broken bones than to be shot and killed. Use this as a last resort though. For example, if you are on the 3rd floor with windows that do not open, and it is safe to jump, you may throw a computer through the window. Yes, they are expensive but cost does not matter when someone is coming after you with a gun.
• Attend a Critical Incident Stress Debriefing to discuss the incident with others that were involved. The state or federal government has people who are trained and will travel to your location to assist you with the emotional as well as physical recovery.
• Don't take personal belongings or put yourself at risk to collect these items. Personal property can be replaced—humans can't.
• Always treat your fellow students and co-workers with with respect. You influence more people's lives in your everyday life than you will ever know. Make the influence a positive one.
• Remember the "C"s:
  • Calmness - screaming probably won't help you.
  • Cover - decrease your chances of being shot.
  • Common sense and instincts - move away from the shooter, windows, and doors.
  • Creativity - e.g., putting soap on the floor.
  • Courage - it won't be easy.
  • Cellphone or landline phone - to call 911 or other emergency number.

• Don't let the fear of a shooting change your life. It is out of your control.Just live life to its fullest knowing what to do if a shooting ever did happen.
• Remember that schools are some of the safest places to be. Children ages 12 to 18 are far more likely to be killed or seriously assaulted outside school, said Delbert S. Elliott, director of the Center for the Study and Prevention of Violence at the University of Colorado.
• If you are a teacher or principal, educate your students about this serious issue. But don't scare them to death! Remind them that the odds are minuscule (less than the building catching fire!) but it is better to be safe than sorry.
• Do not try to talk to or negotiate with someone shooting or making threats with a weapon, unless you have no choice. There are people with specialized training for this. Your job is to get as far away as quickly as possible.
• Emergency personnel are trained to survey a scene before entering it. Don't be shocked if the cavalry stays parked outside and doesn't come running in before the threat is established. They're taught that they can't help anyone if they're dead. It's true but an unpleasant reality if you're the one inside with a threatening person.

Ingredients   [edit]

• Kasseri Cheese (for 2 people, we usually make 2 or 3 wedges of “Stella Kasseri Cheese”)
• Baguette bread - sliced (you can use both French baguette and sun dried tomato baguette, a good substitute is sun dried tomato flat out bread)
• 3 Eggs – beaten
• Italian style breadcrumbs
• Vegetable oil

Cucumber Sauce

• 3 – 4 teaspoons lemon juice (more or less to taste)
• 3 teaspoons garlic powder (more or less to taste)
• 3 – 4 good-sized cucumbers
• 16 ounces sour cream or plain yogurt

Steps   [edit]

Sauce Preparation

1. 

   Sauce Preparation - Ingredients
   Gather your ingredients for the sauce.
2. 

   Sauce Preparation - Cut up Cucumbers
   Peel the cucumbers, cut them lengthwise into quarters, and then cut into small pieces.
3. 

   Sauce Preparation - Cucumbers blended in blender
   Put the cucumber pieces into a blender and liquefy.
4. 

   Sauce Preparation - Straining blended cucumbers
   Strain the cucumber juice through a small-screened sieve. You will be using the pulp.
5. 

   Sauce Preparation - Drink or discard Cucumber juice
   Drink, save, or discard the leftover cucumber liquid.
6. 

   Sauce Preparation - Finished Sauce
   Mix the sour cream, cucumber pulp, garlic powder, and lemon juice together, using more or less garlic powder and/or lemon juice to taste.
7. 

   Cucumber Sauce In Dessert Dishes
   Serve the sauce in individual dessert dishes.
   

Cheese Preparation

1. 

   Cheese Preparation - Stella brand Kasseri Cheese
   Take cheese out of packages and let sit until it reaches room temperature. (If the cheese is too cold, then during the time it takes to cook, the outer part of the cheese will melt but the inner part will still be too solid and not melty. And if kept in the oil longer to get the inside melty, then the breading will burn).
2. 

   Cheese Preparation - Beaten Eggs and Bread Crumbs on plates
   Beat the eggs and pour onto a plate. Pour Italian breadcrumbs onto another plate.
3. Dip all sides of the cheese into the egg mixture, then into breadcrumbs to bread the cheese.
4. Set cheese on another plate and let the breading on the cheese dry.
5. 

   Cheese Preparation - Double breaded Kasseri Cheese Wedges
   Repeat the breading process. They must be double breaded so the cheese won’t melt through the breading during cooking.
6. 

   Frying pan with vegetable oil and skillet on stove
   Heat vegetable oil in a frying pan on slightly less than medium setting. (Use enough vegetable oil to come half way up the sides of the cheese during cooking). Also heat up a skillet (such as one used for making tortillas, with shallow side walls).
7. 

   Frying the cheese
   Put cheese into the oil until golden brown.
8. 

   Fried Kasseri Cheese
   Turn the cheese over and cook until that side is also golden brown.
9. 

   Dinner is served
   Put cheese in the skillet and serve as is, along with the cucumber sauce and baguette bread.
10. 

    Cheese and Sauce on Baguette bread
    Use a fork to cut a piece of the cheese (while cheese is still in the skillet), put the cheese from the fork onto a slice of bread, and put sauce on the bread also. Enjoy!

Tips   [edit]

• Serving the cheese in a hot skillet helps keep the cheese hot. You’ll need something on the table to set the skillet on so that it doesn’t burn or scorch the table.
• The cheese should be between 3/4" and 1" thick.
• Don't be afraid to try this with other cheeses as well. Cheddar cheese and pepper jack cheese are also good when prepared in this manner.
• In the absence of a small-screened sieve, 2 or 3 paper towels folded can be used to separate the cucumber juice from the pulp.
• Substitute the sour cream with yogurt for a more authentic tsatsiki sauce.
• For an extra touch, pour a small amount of brandy (1/4 cup will do) over the fried cheese. Light it on fire and then squeeze a lemon over it. Don't forget to yell "OPA!"
• You can also use flatbread for a more authentic dish.

• Blender
• Medium to large frying pan
• Skillet with shallow sides
• Dessert dishes
• Small-screened sieve
• Something to set on the table top to set the hot skillet on to prevent burning or scorching the table, such as an upside down pizza pan.